What do you consider to be a productive session based on the amount of time spent out there? I'm more interested in the crowded spots versus open beachbreak. I see guys getting a wave in every set even with 50 people out; and then there's everyone else....
Just curious.
I’m a wave hog. Kind of hyper active. I like to surf by myself so I dawn patrol. When there’s no longer somehwere to paddle by myself I usually go in.
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I'm a wave hog. Kind of hyper active. I like to surf by myself so I dawn patrol. When there's no longer somehwere to paddle by myself I usually go in.
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My dawn patroi sessions the last four times out have been met with limited parking and about 20-30 people in the water, shortly after civil twighlight (5:15 am). There's really not much of a way to escape the hoardes here except to surf closed out shoredump. So this sparked my question. Last two sessions I've gotten 4- 6 waves in an hour, gotten frustrated and gone in. Now these days are the exceptions because the swell was coming in and the crowds were crazy, but I told my wife last night, I'm at the point where I dread seeing a good surf forecast because it means everyone and their uncle will be on it like flies on turd. Much rather surf waist high stuff with a crowd of 3 than head-high with a crowd of 30.
Sadly, this is the reason I walked away from 2000-2008. Crowds seem a bit better now and I'm in better shape so I can get more waves than before, but it still wears on my nerves.
it’s pretty easy to get bummed out about the waves you didn’t get b/c of the crowds. why not enjoy and appreciate the 4-6 waves you got instead of whining about the ones you didn’t?
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I'm a wave hog. Kind of hyper active. I like to surf by myself so I dawn patrol. When there's no longer somehwere to paddle by myself I usually go in.
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My dawn patroi sessions the last four times out have been met with limited parking and about 20-30 people in the water, shortly after civil twighlight (5:15 am). There's really not much of a way to escape the hoardes here except to surf closed out shoredump. So this sparked my question. Last two sessions I've gotten 4- 6 waves in an hour, gotten frustrated and gone in. Now these days are the exceptions because the swell was coming in and the crowds were crazy, but I told my wife last night, I'm at the point where I dread seeing a good surf forecast because it means everyone and their uncle will be on it like flies on turd. Much rather surf waist high stuff with a crowd of 3 than head-high with a crowd of 30.
Sadly, this is the reason I walked away from 2000-2008. Crowds seem a bit better now and I'm in better shape so I can get more waves than before, but it still wears on my nerves.
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it's pretty easy to get bummed out about the waves you didn't get b/c of the crowds. why not enjoy and appreciate the 4-6 waves you got instead of whining about the ones you didn't?
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Well I still paddle out on those days, so I guess I must be having some fun. I'm more interested in finding out what other folks consider a successful session to give me some perspective. Maybe you're right, I shouldn't be griping at all.
Palisades? So you’re surfing the Malibu coast? Worst crowds in the world. You’re getting 4-6 waves an hour? That’s like one every ten minutes. Dude, you’re totally scoring! When I paddle out at Malibu (Surfrider) I’m thinking to myself, “If I can a two or three waves down the point (in a three hour session), I’m stoked.”
Remember what Mickey Munoz said about crowds. He said, “All it takes is one good turn” to wash away all the negatives aspects of a session.
One good turn.
We nearly all want more waves and when it gets to the point of how much of an ass I have to be to get one I just get out of the water usually. To me it’s close enough to production.
Having surfed SoCal for 15 years, moving to Minnesota can really change your perspective. You have never worked so hard for so much mediocre surf. A 3 hour drive and wearing a 6/5/4 to surf in 32 degree water in howling winds. On the upside, there are only about 60 surfers in the state and we all get on well. After thw winds die and all that wave energy is still bouncing around, trapped in the lake, that’s when the magic happens. Glassy 4-6 ft waves to share with 3 or 4 freindly faces. We even get a few 7-9 ft days. I don’t get to surf as often , but I sure do enjoy it more.
I live/surf in the Pleasure Point area of S Cruz and never get enough. Was not born/raised here so I’m low on the totem pole, even though I’ve surfed and had my boards glassed here for 15 years. I’m not trying to “bro-sie” in on the cool guys crowd either (I surf to get away from people, strange yes?). I’m fit, 40ish and can surf a shortboard if it’s waist hi or better, BUT have to rely on a log from time to time w/crowds and wave count. I don’t spend more than 1 1/2 hr per avg session (I wear a 3/2mm 10 mos of the year). Usual crowd is 10-40 folks from 1st peak thru 2nd peak depending on all the variables. I’d be happy w/2-3 good ones an hour BUT usually I get 1-3 good ones a session.
I know there’s less crowded spots but w/work and such, I’d rather not drive even though I do sometimes and get possibly less quality w/less folks? Always a toss up as to what’s the value? Crowds, quality, fun, turns per wave?
Did a baja trip a month ago and was surfing very similar style/quality waves (on a good day, 2-3’ OH on the take off) and was out w/4 to 6 folks on average for 3-4 days. This was GOOD! I was getting about 4-6 an hour and they were warm and fun!
Keeps me “happy” enough and I’m a strong swimmer/biker/runner so I’m happy getting a workout as a by product of the effort BUT I think this thread wants us all to dream either of “them olden days” or a “remote spot” or just the nirvana we deserve as pure souls…F the masses!
I also subscribe to the theory that I’m happier surfing usually the day before or after the “internet buzz swell” of the week.month. Score when I can, keep a maintenance plan on the “peak days” and travel when it’s possible…
Slater’s Wave Park? I’ll go around circle that till my legs fall off…bring it on!
if I loose count ,, Im good
but then again,,,
if I get the wave of the day on the first wave,,, the rest is iceing on the cake
More then all of you combined!
Never say to yourself or anyone “I’m going in”. Say I’m heading west now (or what ever direction the shore is) and you will get your good last wave.
Try it, Its a religion among our crew of 20 years ago… It works!
I dont have to worry about wave count, coz i surf early mid week. Love it!!
Getting a good last wave/wave in is a high priority for the days satisfaction. The lack of that satisfying last wave has caused me to be late for many appointments.
The East Coast scene is different… there’s actually more waves. So I’d have to say it’s relative… Short period windswells mean rapid fire sets with little time in between. Shorter rides mean shorter paddles back out to the lineup. There are times when you can get more than one wave in a set… jump on the first or second one, paddle back out like a maniac, spin and no-paddle into another one. I don’t think anyone keeps count, but I think you can get 4-6 waves in about 20 minutes on a decent day if you’re motivated. Yesterday was fun… about chest high and clean, and a good set would come and clear the lineup… seemed like almost everybody would get a wave. Lots of happy kids in the water.
Somewhere between five and too cold or arms are falling off. Mike
mikeb that is insane...a successful session depends on the waves that day...1-2 ft...catching a million little waves is fun...when its double overhead and stormy sometimes one is enough...depends on the conditions and how youre feeling that day...i personally dont count waves...and i usually surf at spots where there arent a whole lot of people...when i get tired and hungry after a few hours i usually head in satisfied
wave count is subjective to quality of ride frequency of sets and crowd and who is in the crowd. personally, I like to get at least a wave every 5 minutes to be really happy. I have had sessions where I get one wave every 45 and am stoked. I am recalling one session I had with my friend where we were longboarding and it was basically a carousel, less than thirty seconds between getting back out and being on the next wave. In a 45 minute session I had at least 30 waves.
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What do you consider to be a productive session based on the amount of time spent out there? I'm more interested in the crowded spots versus open beachbreak. I see guys getting a wave in every set even with 50 people out; and then there's everyone else....
Just curious.
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One, if it's good enough. If all there is is cr@p , then one is too many and I shouldn't be out there anyways.
I mean, would you rather have quality or quantity? I'd rather let a malformed, mediocre set go by and pick off a good wave later, even if it means I let a lot go by. I'd rather not be out at all if it's just slop or packed with idiots. I get all the exercise I need, thanks, and this "I need to get wet" cr@p I hear is nonsense. Take a freakin' shower. Go jump in a lake. Forget to come in out of the rain.
I find that even on crowded days, the good guys are picking off the best waves of the sets and the also rans get what's left. Experience counts, and the wit to keep looking outside rather than looking at the beach and one's imaginary throng of fans. They're not there, they never were there, they only exist in a fantasy world. Even their freakin' girlfriends are talking trash to the other girlfriends on the beach, they're not watching what's happening out in the water.
You get a few who get 90% of the good waves and at the same time you got your Bobs, just sitting there like buoys, doing their "lookit me, I'm a reeel soifa" thing as they sit there like so many turkeys on a farm.
I like them. They make it interesting, like a slalom course.
doc...
These are exactly the types of thoughts I was interested in gathering. Thanks all.
Yes, I typically surf the points in the Malibu area, and ocassionally neighboring beachbreaks. The crowds are ridiculous. Even waist high surf draws 30 guys plus on weekends, 5-10 on dawn patrol which is still insane, but tolerable.
I expected someone to bring up the longboard issue as I was toying with whether to mention it or not. On my log I can go out at First Point and get plenty of waves on most days, like the "carousel" effect mentioned above. There are always 50 people out on weekends with any surf, but 30 of those sit on the inside and never paddle for waves.
While the waves are good, I don't find the log to be satisfying - I'd much rather get the same ride on my 6'4". In mixed company (i.e., Topanga, which is mostly shortboards and a few longboarders) I rarely bring out the log, because I don't use it as an advantage to get more waves, and frankly a shortboard is a lot more fun at that spot on most days.
"Getting wet" to me is actually important. Reason being that I recently transitioned to shortboards, and I feel like if I'm not out in the water at least every third day, the next session is troublesome. I work out regularly but nothing simulates getting in the water. So I spend a lot of mornings out in mediocre surf, which is fine with me because it beats working by a mile.
I tend to agree that one wave can be good enough to make a session, depending on the conditions. And a knee high session with 25 waves might not be satisfying at all. So it seems I've opened a real can of worms here.
My true interest was really figuring out if I need to improve my wave count or just focus on surfing better when I am up and riding.