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2501

Finished this Twynzer shape

it surfs aboslutely shit!

i am going to readjust the fins: board is just surfable with twin fins at 8,75 ot, toe 1/8, canted 4 [inside concave, so looking at them they are too straight]

anybody got ideas for fin placement??

all theory down the drain, will readjust to 8 degrees cant and 1/4 toe in; hopefully it turns better then!

does look good though, no sand throughs!

spackled eps 2,5#, 6oz bottom 2*4oz+patch 4oz deck

kwik kick and home made hd inserts [see “what i route” thread]

posca pinline

weight about 2,8kg

larry mabile twinzer set

when i looked at his blog yesterday [mollusk surfshop] i saw his trailing edge of van is well past the leading edge of the back fin, 

does anyone think this board will surf pretty good once fins are readjusted?

size is 6 by 12 7/8 by 19 by 15 3/8 by 2,5 i am 6ft3 by 9,5 us feetand 180 lbs

 

SPOT POLISHED [inspired by blog of that mayhem guy, alzheimer]

 

 

2502

hi 'Wouter ' !

 

....I like the outline !

Depending on the size of the waves you are riding it in at the moment [?],  could you maybe try smaller back fins , before readjusting ?   just my 'gut feeling' thought , looking at your photos

 

  cheers

 

  ben  

2503

I made my first twinzer and love it.  Fast and loose.  I think it looks like your canard and main fin have the same cant?  My canards are at 10 degrees and mains at 4.  Maybe that makes a difference?  Also my fins overlap a little.

2504

 

I mounted my mains at 7" from the tail with 5* cant and 3/16" toe in.  I mounted the leader with about 10* of cant, parallel toe, and about 1/4" overlap.  I set it up this way with the intention of surfing it off the tail.  

2505

Hi guys

Thanks so far

What toe in did you use for the main fins? Lillibel, yours look 0.25 inch? That is a surfding file, right? prolly lots of rocker, i am sure there is not enough in mine

my main ones have 4 and the vanes 8 degrees [but inside a concave, so looking at it from nose, they are pretty straight...]

Thanks anyways, my vanes look to be toooo far forward, i guess i misinterpreted Halcyon about 3/8 inch forward of main fins, maybe outward?

2506

If this is your first performance twin I wonder if maybe you’re standing too far back on the board, away from the fin cluster.   I think that could mess you up.    Another thing you could try before moving stuff around is to take the leader off and surf it once as a twin to see whether the positioning of the main is the problem.      I may very well be wrong on this but my understanding of twinzers is that  - among other benefits - the additional cant on the leader helps to initiate turns.  

2507

I think the 3/8" refers to the amount of overlap between the trailing edge of the canard and the leading edge of the main.   I may be wrong about this too, but I set my cants off of level, not the bottom itself.  

 

By the way, I  love your inserts.  

2508

thanks gdad!

so, does it surf off the tail well? Yours are pretty far back at 7, how long is your board? sub 6ft?

what does your rocker look like? 3 stage? flat? and the bottom?

thanks again

2509

 

This is what the template looks like (pic was prior to glassing)

Dimensions are 6-2 x 20.5 x 2.65  (I’m not as young and fit as you are).  Rocker at 5" N and 2.25" T - A little more than I would normally do for such a board but the blank was almost free so I used what I had.  Because of the tail rocker I only added a little bit of vee and left the bottom contour flat with a tucked edge from nose to tail.  It all worked out, though.    For info I used a fin template for the mains that has more surface area than the ones they normally use for twinzer sets.     

 

Edit to add - I think the board can surf a lot better than I can.  

2510

Nice looking board this fin setup is super responsive on mine 8.5 off the tail 6deg main 10deg canards ,I set the cant off a straightedge. Foot placement is critical however.
I your back foot right back at the kick of the tail pad? Looks like its behind the fins?

2511

Finally finished refurbing my yardsale winger - unfortunately, after repairs, I discovered on the bottom a few bad spots in the foam that I missed initially.  So I had to open them up and repair properly.  The board was old and neglected, I should have given it a more thorough inspection.  

There were a few dings that had deeper damage beyond just the surface indent due to taking in water over time, the glass felt firm, but when I set the newly re-glassed board out in the sun to cure, these spots puffed up - I cut the puffy glass off, and some of them had water inside.

Anyway, its done now, and ready to get wet.

Quick and dirty re-hab, sanded, spackled, painted, and glassed with 2 oz., 4 oz. on the deck patch and faux rail lap, tinted resin and white resin pinline.  Epoxy sanded finish.

2512

wouter

try the board with the large fins forward and the smalls in the rear

looks like a lot of total fin area

maybe also try just the large fins forward

large fins forward will move the pivit point under your foot, better for small waves too

it wont cost anything

2513

Just shaped 2 boards and finishing them up. First one is 6’0" x 21 9/16" x 2 9/16" with diamond tail. The other is 7’10" x 21x 2 3/4 funboard with a cedar tail block thats going to get a fabric inlay on it.

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2514

Heres the inlay.

2515

Didnt come up.

2516

…hey Huck, that s a DS board!

2517

He must have been shaping under the Clyde Beatty label, it had both names / logos. 

2518

 

looks good Huck

was that all resin work?

or is there tissue in there somewhere?

white resin pinlines???? I havnt been able to pull those off yet, I hear cobalt is the trick, and white is a bitch.

I have to srape them off and go back to water base acrylic

2519

Hey Ken thanks (sorry I missed your phone call earlier was tied up this afternoon), no tissue on this one. 

I painted the board yellow on one half, green on the other, and white on the bottom, using a foam weenie roller and acrylic paint from Lowe's. 

The rest is all tint in the resin, and green is the only color I have right now, so green it was!  I poured from two small cups, one green one clear.  Once I poured my pattern, I didn't squeegee at all, just worked it into the glass with a foam weenie roller. 

I do have some white, so I mixed a little in on the deck patch.  That didn't come out as nice looking as I imagined, I shoulda just went clear over the existing pattern.  The kinda ugly line around the deck patch is just some green acrylic house paint I had in the garage (why do I keep that stuff around?)

The faux-lap rails were several pieces of like 2" wide scraps of 4 oz. glass (that I normally keep for ding repairs), and the deck is 2 oz. (which is like glassing with silk or something), that accounts for the deeper green on the rails.

As far as the white pin line - it wasn't a problem really, just beginners luck, or maybe its an epoxy thing.  I masked, mixed it thick with plenty of pigment, and painted the resin with a little artists brush.  Then I thinned what was left with dna, and when the stuff on the board started to gel, I painted again. 

It wanted to fish-eye, so after I painted a second time, I thinned again with a bit more dna, and kept re-painting and working the trouble spots until it all gelled.  Guess you can't do that with poly, hahaha.

When I pulled the tape there were just a few bleeds, which I wiped off with dna on a rag, and what didn't come off that way I carefully sanded off.

When it was all dry, I wet sanded and went over with one last coat of clear - I really like a little clear over my pinlines, to kinda protect them and fill in at the edge.

2520

Im glad to know you faught the pin lines ,, LOL!

maybe you should call those boards "Resurection" surfboards