Huie.
Its a stand size of 600 x 1200 and this one is 2500 in length. There made at 5000 in length so this a half a block.
Ok, after trimming of the insert, its time for the carbon on the top. Much like putting it on the bottom. Wait for the right time and trim to meet the carbon on the bottom rail…now, if youve done a good job glassing should be as per usual, if not surf foam and sand high bits, and watch out cause the carbon will get all over everything (and ware a good mask when working with carbon)… as you may all know EPS drinks water (unless extruded) like crazy. This one turned out good so im sticking to my plan of one 4 oz on the deck over the insert and a 4 oz on bottom. Everything is tucked in nicely. There are no high spots and bumps to create weak channels to funnel water into the blank when the board is put under stress.
wow, I hate to post after Yorky’s carbon rail board, that is crazy nice.
here is a couple of core cell compsands I’m working on, one is 6’2" x 20"x2 1/4" the other is 6’3"x19 1/2" x 2 3/8" with a small nose and tail block. Both have a 1/8 birch parabolic stringer and core cell just on the deck and rails with 4oz under 6 oz over. These are the first two i’ve tried with the FCS fusion boxes and they are by far the easiest, fin system install I’ve ever done. (not that I have a whole lot of experience but still very trouble free. And great service from my local rep)
the rails really aren’t as bad as they look in the photo.
Here is a couple of pics of the deck glassed. 1 x 4 0z plain weave. Iv had a few of these boards and copped a few hits on the body from the rail, its not like a normal PU hit thats for sure, Its like an alloy. I used a fast Epoxy for the deck cause it was quite a basic glass up with only one layer and one decal. Also cause I wanted a handle on any drainage or bubbles from a long wait… No air, stoked. Its winter here in oz so all epoxy is slowish anyway.
Good work Pat.
I’m keen to have a go at some core cell on the deck one day, I haven’t put much thought into it myself.
Any chance of a quick run down?
And thank you for your comment. Cheers
Hi Yorky, I’m just a hobbyist doing boards for myself and a few friends, most of my boards so far have been T2 eps with balsa or cedar rails about 1/2" thick. To be honest I don’t really notice much of a performance difference with the core cell deck, but it does greatly reduce the heel denting (i weigh about 200lbs) I think it also reduces the amount of epoxy you use as it doesn’t absorb it like eps. It does tend to go brown after a year or so, even with a UV protectant top coat and looks like an old PU thats been left outside too long. the corecell is harder to sand than PU or eps but I prefer it to eps because you don’t have to worry about ripping chunks out or it sticking to everything. It also finishes off pretty nice and is paintable once you sand it down. also doesn’t absorb water when dinged like eps. also a lot easier than laying up a dozen strips of balsa. I think you might get better performance if you went 4oz instead of 6 but I try not to make them too light cause we get lots of windy days here and they kind of hang up in the lip when you are dropping in if they are too light.
My favorite boards so far are the ones I’ve dove with extruded foam/perimiter stringers. they just feel much more lively.
I don’t yet have a compressor big enough to vac bag it properly so my layup is definatly low tech, just lay the shaped board into the block offcut and cover with sandbags or 50 lb bags of birdseed which we use anyway. works alright.
Thanks for the good words. I’m a snowboarder as well so I really like the possibilities that the new and innovative materials and uses can bring to surfboards like yours, and that orange just looks great.
cheers
Been a bit busy working and surfing so no time to post.
As you may have noticed I did a reverse glass job on this board (glassed the top first). Here is the bottom glassed.
Also glassed on foam filled fins @ 3 5/16 x 11 aimed 2" off the nose.
After 12 hours in my hot box @ 60 c its time for the sanding. Sanded with 120 grit then 150 grit them 240 grit.
After sanded I added a white pin line (should of been black and rounded off on the tail to match the tail shape, it was 1am and I got lazy), a light pro tech and then wet rub with 400 grit paper.
JOB DONE!!!
I hope you enjoyed the making of my new board. See Ya!
Yorky,
Thanks for sharing.
This stuff definately should have been a thread topic on its own.
Have you got a ride report for us? Or is it too flat down there as well. Should be waves at the end of the week so maybe after that.
How does you deck material effect the flex?
What density foam did you get?
You should add you rail lap sanding tool thing to the home made tool thread… http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=377697
Cheers,
Scot
Hey Yorky
I was just wondering how transparent the “holder” fibers in that carbon tape become after wet out. I can kind of see in the pic of the fins that it gives it a pattern of some sorts. Is there a possibility of a closeup?
That is an awesome board btw, really like the look of it with your “mystery” ballistic material and the carbon rails.
Durbulator
heres my latest
not done , just shaped and bagged the deck the wood is Sycamore with ribbon grain
closeup of veneer
that stuff is going to EXPLODE when you glass it…awesome!
Afoaf
When I walk the board The ribbons change as I move , freekin wild
Cant wait till its wetted
I got to go out of town (work) this week
hopefully next week I can glass er up
Red and black bottom stripes cut lap at deck wood with pinline
clear deck of course!
working on my vac system for the many boards I will be building… sooner than later hopefully.
Got a freezer compressor for $20 off craigslist, some PVC tubing to function as my reservoir from
home depot $13 (the tube itself was like $3 but the caps were $5 each!), vacuum advance off
of a '50-something chevy from my dad’s friend free (this guys house is better than a junkyard),
momentary switch for $3, spring for $2 and the rest of the materials I already had.
Oh yeah, the damn vacuum gauge was $23. I should have shopped around and gotten a
cheap one, but I got impatient. Got lucky and found a quick-connect on a broken compressor
someone had thrown out at work. All I need to get is a vaccum port to and a fitting or two,
then i am ready to start using it.
After finding the spring with the right stiffness I can very easily adjust the point at which the
vacuum advance lets off the switch turning the compressor off.
Got the plans for this here
Any suggestions for vacuum ports? All I can really find is one at airtech.com.
I apologize for the quality of these pics, I dont have a digital camera so the cell
phone will have to suffice
Vacuum advance feedback system
the compressor will suck up to about 27.5 inches mercury.
Durbs, hey mate. Well the holder fibers don’t really become totally transparent, its kind of strange cause they give off a kinda snake skin appearance . They look like snake skin/3D in the sun, You can get plane weave with carbon warp and glass the other (the glass goes clear and the carbon stays nice and straight) I just like the snake skin look…
Hello scot, I think that with the ballistic material on the deck it gives the board a real positive directional feel compared to carbon rail only (and its always cold to touch). Hard to really tell right now. The board seems very flexy and buoyant, I got a comment first surf that it looks like it is buoyant and that it also looks like it goes good.
I’m very fussy with my boards and was impressed with the speed and the immense tail release, probably due to the buoyancy. It felt harder to slow down and draw out turns than a PU. If you struggle with speed and zippyness maybe this technology is exactly what you need.
The board weighs 2.1 kg or 4.6 pound. nice and light and only minor foot dints.
My next project is going to be a short board with the glassing on the bottom the same as the deck, to give equal flex and a bit more weight… see how long this will last. bullet proof. but expensive!
I’ll show ya some pics
…Meanwhile… back at the Low Tech Lab…Stingray attempts to make a center fin out of an old glass on…
I’m looking forward to checking your work ken. I have never worked with wood before on the deck… I,m wondering whats happening to fill that gap on the rail? You sound excited see cant wait to see how she turns out. wood always seems to look awesome.
build looked nice and clean Yorky… have you just tried a unidirectional glass on the rail instead of carbon… also the carbon/kevlar crossed weave looks cool when you do it. the gold deck reminds me of the aluminium decks we did a few years back.
keep up the experimentals… it keeps your passion for boardbuilding alive.
Yorky,
Let me have a guess at your ballistic fibres:
Is it Dynema (UHMWPE, ultra high molecular weight polyethylene)?
What I heard (and learned in my studies as engineer) of it: It is superstrong (indeed stronger than kevlar) but get’s an inferior bonding with epoxy (compared to all other fibres we use) chemically (it still is PE) and mechanically (it has a super smooth surface).
It’s the stuff that replaced kevlar in bulletproof vests. And it’s already used in the windsurf industry for high impact reinforcements (never full laminates).
But I could be wrong at my guess 
Hans,
Nar, its not Dynema (but it could be, hey). Its recommended for use with Epoxy too. I’m going to do a release of the product in Japan and Oz soon.
Not stating any bullshit like
“world first” or to try patent it or any thing stupid, just keeping a little lid on it for a bit. IMHO not a product for mass production due to the cost and its hard to work with too.
PM me with your guesses and im happy to tell you if its correct ha ha.