the house that hosted the dale incl. ladder to roof
joel’s only office
coolest room in the house - run slept here
coldest room in the house - no heat whatsoever but steve sacked up
black spoon, carbon-eps fish, dale mat, and wilderness single fin
living room
carl’s edgeboard, jamie’s green spoon
the essentials
backyard with firepit fed by neighborhood construction materials
view from the roof down the block to Pleasure Point
at the end of the street make a right and a fast left
to the end
and today you’ve got a minus tide and onshores
john mel the legend
fluid…
but he wrenched a knee on one of these turns
and missed the firepit session that evening
run and his quad fish spoon, a confident call in small surf
getting everything
out of every bump
distant past meets distant future
myself i was too chilled to go out
just sat and reflected soberly upon…
another day
a certain encounter
that put two cracks in the rails by my ankles
before i gave it to tony from down under
who had it patched and signed by his mates
at the world kneelo contest
sacrilege or stoke? your call