I will leave “debates” to others. Over the years Surfboards keep changing. There have been some pretty big waves ridden on 50/50 railed boards, flatter rockered boards, longer boards and shorter boards. Probably some of the BIGGEST waves are being ridden on 5’ long tow in boards. The current trend I see going on is trying to apply some of the “modern” short board theory to the boards. Thus concave bottoms and channels wide points moved back etc. Better worse ? who knows till you take the drop. Personally I would have gone with a slight convex bottom to a “soft modern” rail with Vee panels off the tail. I just like the way they feel. Fast secure easy to roll on edge. With a rail that maintains some vertical in the last 12" or so. Some times there is only one way to find out, start paddling.
I still have not run into my friend to get full story. again, on the Brewer. Workin on it.
It is finally ready. I do not know about him. He already put a nice hole in it trying to stuff it into his car “my shortboards fit”. This is going to be interesting.
From the father of two teenage daughters to the father of another teenage daughter,I can honestly say I don’t like him already. Nice board, though. Mike
That board looks pretty nice Ace. I got an 8'9" triple stringer quad from Toby over the summer and took it out to the same spot for its maiden voyage last Thursday. Biggest one I got was maybe 18' face. There were a few 20' sets but not like the day before...which was a good thing for me as that was my first time out there. Got comfortable taking off under/behind the peak and had an absolute blast out there. The quad gun Rich made me worked insane, just wish I ordered a 9'0" cause I want bigger waves now!
Not sure. I think he would be happier with it if he got it for $400 from one of his backyard shortboard “shaper” friends. This old man is just not cool enough to make a “sick” surfboard. Even though I am back in the ''backyard" again.
Nice, legit wave. Not a 30 footer though. That looks like a pretty calm glassy day for out there. I love quads, but for backside I wonder if I wouldn’t want a thruster out there. I love quads, but if I’m surfing solely on my backhand I tend towards thruster, especially if it’s late, critical drops. Nice work ACE, looks like a sweet board.
Sounds like the board “worked”. Caught the wave, made the drop and got out of there. He got held under a few “30 footers”. Now I have to get him to understand that it is time to step up and get some GOOD fins. He asked if there were any “cheap” good fins…
There are plenty of “cheap” “good” fins out there. If I understand his budget correctly, he should be able to find fins by going to a rocky break (Malibu for instance) and waiting for low tide. With a little perseverance (he might need to look that word up), he can find a perfect setup at a perfect price.
