the blades are over $200.00
All resawing and thickness planing complete…planer only goes to 1/8…am considering making a sled so I can put them through thinner but I’m worried about the autofeed farking it up so I might just stick with this thickness and take it down with the sander once it’s on the board.
Planning on using this stuff on the bottom and rails with some walnut veneer from Ken on the deck…this stuff is so hearty I don’t have a lot of confidence that I can get it to wrap curves elegantly…flat bottom may be better application…spring and inertia…it’s going to be a winter step up (hopefully in time for Plaskett)
got over 100 pieces…4 slices per board on almost 30 boards…
the workhorse
third mode is a mortiser using an attachment not pictures…
ran nearly all day long yesterday…sucks about your nap, asshole neighbor!
Afoaf, go to : lumberjocks.com and go to the homemade tools thread. Check out the shop made drum sanders. Simple and not too expensive. Once you get the idea, you can configure to your needs.
Set Aside Project…
This sub five foot belly board came out of old Redwood Wine Vat. Lumber from Whitethorn, Ca. lumberyard. Every cut gave off a wonderful aroma of red wine…
Weighed this little guy the other day…50 pounds…
Someday…!!
roger
Hate to get hit by that in the water!
Afoaf, That’s what I was talking about but too much of a dope to know how to do the fancy blue print link. As you may have seen, there is more than one version. If you have a ReStore in your area check it out. They are a subsidiary of Habitat for Humanity. They always have motors available. The sander doesn’t need high rpms but does need torque. These motors are good for making a 12 inch or whatevas disc sander as well. Harbor Freight sells pillow blocks but Grizzly has quality ones with zert (sp?) fittings for lube. Good Luck.
put the alaias down for just a spell and started building out the bottom skin for this board…I think this cedar might even yield 3 boards…we’ll see how this one nets out weight-wise on this step up before I go bananas.
getting the panel oriented…going to keep this one pretty rustic with the old nail holes and other bits.
taped it up so I can flip and sand down the top to get it all flush and pretty before I laminate
bump
bump
Chris, you referenced the hotwire in the other thread, but I’ve built it for this board.
I have a fully shaped blank and I want to peel off a configurable amount of foam from each rail so that I can build it back out with the cedar, compsando style.
I have also wanted to try a bow; Ken has a nice one at Segway that he uses to cut outlines…very clean (and quiet)
I took his design, married it to Shwuz’s rail marking tool design and added the adjustability that I wanted.
big MDF top, this will sit flat on the bottom of the board and provide the 90` reference
I used 4 dowels, two, like Shwuz did on his marking tool allow the curve of the rail to sit between them providing two touch points that are also rounded for smooth operation. The two dowels in the rear are mostly there to reinforce the upper and lower sections so I don’t get sagging or distortion of the cutting angle
on the top, you can see the dowels, attachments and the hardware. Both the top and bottom plates have a hole routed through them to allow for the wire fixtures on the top and bottom to SLIDE in and out so that I can adjust the cutting dept…so no matter how much wood I want to build up on the rails, I can adjust the bow on the fly with the wingnuts…slide it, check the angle relative to the top panel and lock them in.
I’m going to use 1/2" rails…3 parts cedar, 1 part balsa for looks. I use the rail boards to actually set the depth of the wire so that I can ensure that I keep the planshape true
I just need to noodle on my powersource and do some test cuts.
Bonus, the offcuts from the foam blank can be layed out flat and used to draw up the profile for the rail layups…I reckon I can minimize waste this way.
sliced off 1/2" from each side and will build out with 3 layers of cedar and 1 layer of balsa (for nice pinstripe look)
used the offcuts to lay out the rough profile for the foundation rail
did a little steam bending to get things to glue up well…1/8" cedar keeps quite a bit more tension than balsa
the clamping was definitely a 2-man operation…took some serious futzing to get things on there properly…NEEDS MORE CLAMPS!
bagging on the bottom cedar skin
note, after 20 or more boards, some with multiple bagging operations, I finally had to trim off the first 4 feet of my 18’ nylon bagging tube as it had developed a couple of pin hole leakes that I couldn’t chase down. the nice thing is that I can use the offcut portion as a release film (which I did for this particular bag job) and I still have 14’ or so left. the acp-composites 36" nylon tub and bag clamps are AWESOME.
[quote="$1"]
Chris, you referenced the hotwire in the other thread, but I've built it for this board.
I have a fully shaped blank and I want to peel off a configurable amount of foam from each rail so that I can build it back out with the cedar, compsando style.
I have also wanted to try a bow; Ken has a nice one at Segway that he uses to cut outlines...very clean (and quiet)
I took his design, married it to Shwuz's rail marking tool design and added the adjustability that I wanted.
big MDF top, this will sit flat on the bottom of the board and provide the 90` reference
I used 4 dowels, two, like Shwuz did on his marking tool allow the curve of the rail to sit between them providing two touch points that are also rounded for smooth operation. The two dowels in the rear are mostly there to reinforce the upper and lower sections so I don't get sagging or distortion of the cutting angle
on the top, you can see the dowels, attachments and the hardware. Both the top and bottom plates have a hole routed through them to allow for the wire fixtures on the top and bottom to SLIDE in and out so that I can adjust the cutting dept...so no matter how much wood I want to build up on the rails, I can adjust the bow on the fly with the wingnuts...slide it, check the angle relative to the top panel and lock them in.
I'm going to use 1/2" rails...3 parts cedar, 1 part balsa for *looks*. I use the rail boards to actually set the depth of the wire so that I can ensure that I keep the planshape true
I just need to noodle on my powersource and do some test cuts.
Bonus, the offcuts from the foam blank can be layed out flat and used to draw up the profile for the rail layups...I reckon I can minimize waste this way.
[/quote]
wow... that is much more sophisticated than anything i was thinking of... nice!
This is why I hate compands…fkn hassles…machine shaped so no offcuts which makes the rail glue up a real hassle. Thanks to Durbs for hanging in there.
walnut went on pretty well, too…minor adjustment in tail as the piece of veneer I had wasn’t quite long enough…
Tyler your the most persistant board builder I know. I wish I had your courage.
I appreciate your comments, but I don’t think courage is necessarily the right word…
I like the outline. It’s going to be a beauty. Dims?
7’2 x 21 1/2
This is the step up…a more pulled in version of my GG Rocket in compsand format.
redwood noseblock
sanded
paulownia tail block…trying for a rounded pinnish type thingamajigger
sanded
five minute epoxy does the job perfectly for these types of things.
there is a simple jig