I was out there on my 6’8" m3p last night. Boy, with that bump from the wind and the low tide rapids through the sandbar area I was pretty glad to have grabbed the leash before the run up the beach. With all the chatter on the surface, I was having a heck of a time getting the hull to feel at home on those waves last night.
Couple people mistook me for Matt out there; I think it was the board and wetsuit (wearing a hood) rather than the surfing (darn!). I don’t think I can match Matt’s ability to connect the dots out there and make it through some of those quick sandbar sections…
Getting back to some of the stringerless hulls (like Spence’s) and some of the flex tail hulls (like Ryan’s over at Point Concept) that have been posted on here, can anyone elaborate a little bit on what you could expect from a flex tail hull in terms of how it would differ from the same board but with a standard stringer?
I’ve seen a few boards around over the years that Tony M (outt’a Ojai) has shaped where it looks like he shaped a standard hull with a standard stringer, glassed it and then cut the tail off the board behind the fin box. He then built the missing tail section back up using only fiberglass and resin, sorta’ like the tail on a flexspoon.
I’ve thought about having one of these made someday, but I really have no idea what to expect from it in terms of performance. It seems like a unique ride… Can anyone shed some light on this?
Getting back to some of the stringerless hulls (like Spence’s) and some of the flex tail hulls (like Ryan’s over at Point Concept) that have been posted on here, can anyone elaborate a little bit on what you could expect from a flex tail hull in terms of how it would differ from the same board but with a standard stringer?
I’ve seen a few boards around over the years that Tony M (outt’a Ojai) has shaped where it looks like he shaped a standard hull with a standard stringer, glassed it and then cut the tail off the board behind the fin box. He then built the missing tail section back up using only fiberglass and resin, sorta’ like the tail on a flexspoon.
I’ve thought about having one of these made someday, but I really have no idea what to expect from it in terms of performance. It seems like a unique ride… Can anyone shed some light on this?
i think i’m going to try catching Kidman Ether at his Laguna date with the Surf Gallery Jan 19th - i grew up on T St Strands & Creek, i imagine seeing AK’s new material there will be totally bitchen
today i hit beacons @ 7 then Birdrock at about 2 where i got some nice lefts in across the biggest waves i’ve had under my 6’8 yet. so fun but my legs aren’t holding the rail in at all backside (soy natural)! tomorrow i’m hitting sunset cliffs (via VG’s highway) and am going to glue a hand to a rail on my G Lids as early as possible … taking my 9’6 for after lunch for some high tide foam then bolting directly to Mollusk… i swear god save me from the board rack there - my loves
i hope you all find some blue nooks and some light green brown crannies in tomorrow’s early morning light
“BOJO 58” was really great. Got to talk with some interesting guys including Brian Hilbers of Fineline. The band was really good too. Some funk and jazz and old ska. Mostly all instrumental.
It was great to finally meet Steve Krajewski and pick his brain a little bit. I’m fascinated with his surfing on the Six Feet to Fit videos with his cross stepping up one step on the board. Really reminds me of Dora. He said Miki Dora always made surfing a 9’ or 10’ board look like he’s surfing an 8’ board. Steve explained that his boards are designed to bottom turn and then take a cross step up to the trim spot. He said he surfs a 7’ board like it’s a 9’ board (as far as the cross stepping up to trim goes).
As mentioned before on this thread or another, his boards have more “hull” in the middle of the board in front of the fin and is flatter in the front third (also flat behind the fin). This makes the turning spot in the area in front of the fin but requires stepping up to the flatter spot to take off and trim. Great stuff to ponder.
Unfortunately Steve K has problems with his shoulders that gives him so much pain that he can’t surf anymore and he doesn’t have the finances to pay for the surgery that could fix it. I hope something can be done so he can enjoy surfing once again. 58 years old is too young to stop surfing.
Looks lot like the flex board I saw at Wetsands surfshop in Ventura. That looks unreal Allan!!! what does something like that cost? I think your really onto something very fun there for sure!!
It was an amazing event, to say the least. It was nice talking with the artist Ned Evans, Malibu & PV Cove legend Richard (Saf) Safady, new huller and fellow Swaylocker Miles, and hull flowmaster Jimmy Gamboa.
It was nice to see Steve K. as well. The evening was a buzz of hull talk, design, and wonderful surf stories. Wish you all could have been there!
The art was incredible. it was hard to see just what you were looking at on first glance at the support. some very serious very beautiful installations. the band was funky and i got to meet Paul and Jim - local hull lovers!
if there is any way to get a look at this show in person i suggest you check it out with your own eyes, there isn’t anything on mollusk yet but photos don’t convey scale on the internet for balls … it’s like looking at the waves on the web - Congrats Bojo on an awesome presentation
picked this up when i was there - i had it out for 3 hours this afternoon - thanks for the barrels Brian!
Skip F wasted posted again and again on the bomb of the set at rincon today - 58 is indeed too too young to be forced out of the water…that totally blows
i was talking about Steve’s shoulder issue forcing him out of the water early at 58, not Skip Frye. Skip is fine! he has 50 years surfing this year, he told me so today as i flopped off a wave on the inside at Rincon. i was amazed to hear that this visit to Rincon is 10 years from his last!!! WHAT? he talked about his love for the spot and i just kept thinking why wait ten years??? he was such a nice guy and seemed to REALLY admire the Fineline when i told him how this was the second day i’ve had it out. talking with him as we walked back out to the end of the point was pure pleasure, he shook my hand with both of his and i went out to grab some more perfect waves, stoked and smiling. this new board FLIES!
i understand the idea that a shaper might have an opinion about how big or small a board should be for any surfer’s height weight and experience level. i know they know a LOT more than i do about water craft, but i am so happy with this tiny 6’2 i am wondering how fast a chip like the siglo will run @ 5’10", 23" wide, and 3" thick… i want to know
That tiny pic is hard to really see the board but I did see some better pics under the “Latest Resource Additions”. Nice looking board. How did the bottom and rails turn out?
Sounds like you had a fun session. What were your arms doing while riding the board? Sometimes both my arms will go up uncontrolled Nat Young style but it’s not a bad thing.
