i hope you all can make it to the surf gallery in Laguna tonight from 6-10 for Andrew Kidman’s signing of his new book “Ether”
i got a chance to surf with him up at Rincon a few days ago and i can’t wait to see what his new book is like, i bet it’s as inspiring as his last 2 films are.
do it - you won’t be sorry
So here are some more pics of my fat stubbie friend…
7’0’’ 18.5 22.5@center 22.825@6’’ 15.5 3.125
And here is my 8’0’’ hullish green diamond… not quite a true DH, too much modern rocker and wide point is close to center. You can still get her to lean over on rail and get that feeling we are looking for. Used more for junk, crowded days and lazy shoulders. Surfed with Mr. Andreini a few weeks back on that good swell and he had some nice things to say about her.
wow! did you make those boards? beauties, the both of them. That 7’0 looks smoooooth.
kudos, mate.
Ross
Love the rocker on the 7’0".
Jim
i’ve ridden them both- so fun!- thanks motif!
wow! those are some smooth lines, thank you for sharing those beauties! i’d love to try them both
Nah, not that talented on the shaping end. Bob Miller shaped those gems…
Anyway here is the new one he is shaping for me @ 6’10’’
More pics to come when she is all finished…
P
6’6" Anderson Pescado today- I like the versatility and turning of the thruster set-up and the swallow tail, but also the trim possibilities with the modified hull bottom.
Motif, I got a 7’0’’ just like that 6’10’’ I have always had problems getting just the right fin for it. Mr. Miller did a nice job.
Kirk,
Could you elaborate on your fin problems? Or do you think it was board problems?
I have had some of my own on my thick 7’0’', mostly with the correct flex. Too much and the board would never really “spring” out of turns. Too little and I couldn’t hold the turns very long… like it would come out of the turn before I was ready to release. Also if the fin has some more rake it felt wrong?
Thanks, Brian
Regarding the problem of not holding the turns very long, are you sure it was the flex of the fin and not an issue of the placement?
Jim
i agree with jim-sounds like a placement issue. try moving fin forward a bit. i’m currently trying to tune in KP’s 8’7" “monster stubbie” by liddle. in fact, yesterday i had this exact conversation with him on how i had moved fin back about 7/8" and it did a few things better for the handling but the one issue was it was not rolling over all the way through bottom turns. it would grab and go about 3/4ths of the way through the turn. thus, i ill move it up bit, by bit until it feels right. that board is one fast mutha. takes off in third gear and goes from there!
I am not sure… I always place the fin as far forward as I can. 10.5" fin box 8" from the tail. So the trailing edge of the fin is somewhere in those specs Matt talked about in an earlier post; depending on the base width of the fin. Greg Liddle talks about the farther up the wide point is the longer radius turn and moving the wide point back creates a shorter tighter turn? Does the position of the fin also play a role in length of turn?
Thanks, I think I will bring my screwdriver to the beach and find out for myself how a few adjustments feel. So much fun…
Be careful, you might get addicted… and if you do, it will mess with your mind. You, the way you surf, won’t be the same. I’m just warning you! -Greg Liddle
On a personal email to me a few years back Greg Liddle said about the fin too far forward: “the nose will pull too deeply into the wave face and the tail will try or will slide out…there is a sweet spot…different for everyone because of stature, style, center of gravity etc.”
Jim
hey motif- if you can use a wonderbolt. a lot easier to make adjustments while in the water-no screwdriver needed!
oh yeah, what size fin are you currently using?
Hey Jim–did Liddle elaborate any more than that? Like the hull bottom under the front third would suck into the face?
Matt,
I have been using a couple custom fins similar to True Ames GL 9’0’‘. One I shaped a long time ago that is quite close and another that I shaped out of a Rainbow “el gato” but be 9.75 in height. Yesterday I rode the stock TA GL 9’0’’ that I sanded down to have a little more flex, also moved it back 3/4 of an inch and it felt pretty good. Today weather trashed everything, so I will have to wait for more fin placement tests…
The wonderbolt? Do you use it all the time or just when your moving things around a lot? Do you think it affects water flow of the trailing edge?