Friday, 2May, Pre dawn. Malibu was pulsing and focused on all points throughout the AM full tide. The lower tide brought the takeoff to the inside, perpendicular to the showers. I saw 11 hulls in the water during the day, and most were carving. Most were newer GLs 6’8"-7’6" with full noses and tails. I saw Miles pull off some beautiful turns on his KJ.
I was finally able to ride my 8’7" in some waist to chest high inside zippers. Getting to trim was almost effortless. There was about a 45 minute stretch where I had the inside section to myself as 20 others were sitting out on top of the point.
Proneman and Saf would be happy to hear that many of the hull riders, whom I spoke with in the parking lot, confessed to liking to pancake, or prone ride, their 6’8"-7’6" hulls with the fin moved as far forward as possible.Some said that they like it almost as much as standing!
Matt and KP, how have you found your 8’8"s to handle and what have you modified in the fin placement to keep it smooth?
aw shit- i love riding any of my hulls on knees or prone-the feeling of speed is bitchin’! on my monster smoothie, i have a 9" l-flex(volan) currently set at 12.5". at 13 it rips fast and forward, but cutbacks were not right and the nose was diggin’ in a bit. right now it seems all good. glad to hear the hulls were out at the 'bu…
I was at 1st pt. today from about 6-9 am and I didn’t see any other hulls. Usually there are at least one or two but this morning none. I guess they all had their fill yesterday or went somewhere else.
There was a guy on one of those 1/2" thick wood planks though. I saw him get some nice waves in trim. Looked weird on such a thin board though. I wouldn’t want to get hit by that.
try this- sit with back to tv, hold mirror up in front of you and view footage from that mirror…i watched wayne lynch that way-looks like he is regular foot…
Paul - you’re totally right about the inside Bu man - if you pick’em right the wide swingers are zippers to the end…good to see you nab more than a few of them sir (though frigid the wind was)! i love how all over the beach you are too, there wasn’t one person there with a hull you didn’t talk with that day. when you’re going to go let me know with a PM and i’ll meet up with you again! thanks and aloha
Looks like you guys got a few waves, been in the back country since fri. Hey NICO, I know Andreini deliverd your 2 spoons , post a few pics when you can. Any Hullers lookin for 7’5’ s I got 2 new ones.
Two new spoons freshly delivered from Marc Andreini; a 9’8" for me and a 9’4" for the girlfriend. They’re based on the “Magic Sam” template but with a slightly wider nose. These pictures don’t really do them justice!
The rails/tails on these boards came out beautifully!
The bottom has a slight roll from rail to rail, with a slight rolled vee through the tail. Rails are slightly turned up; not quite 50/50.
Marc and I talked about this yesterday… he said they can be ridden both ways. From the middle of the board to slightly forward of the mid-point, they will trim and turn like a hull. But then you can also still cross-step to the tail and throw in classic LB moves like dropknee turns and left-go-rights or head up to the nose for some tip time.
I’m planning on mostly riding the board on smaller days when I would normally ride a log, although again, according to Marc, the board will work really well even in good waves. I guess I’ll just have to see.
He seemed to be really excited that I ordered this particular shape from him as he seems to really believe in its virtues (he had one for himself hanging in the van ready for a surf).
I’m looking forward to getting it in the water. I’m gonna’ be playing musical fins for a while trying to tune it in. He gave me a 9.5" nat young fin to try. I also plan on trying a Greenough 4a and a few larger flex fins I have laying around. I’ll give a ride report after a session or two.
on my liddle spoon i used a 9.5" liddle flex fin-worked awesome! on the many paul gross spoons i have had iv’e used his 9’5 template( which i believe is the true-ames greenough 4c template) and the greenough 4a 9.75". the last one provides heaps of drive ,etc. but needs to be set back further than the oothers as it will tend to push nose down too much…
Good point Spence. I have an old one of those lying around the garage somewhere. I think I bought it at the True Ames factory back when I got my first Vaquero from Marc in ‘98. The fin got a twist in it at some point, so I’m gonna’ have to find that other Sway’s thread that shows how to re-straighten out a fin. I had foiled it down at the tip for extra flex and it worked really well until it got warped. Haven’t used it since…
I’m also considering one of these in the 9.5" size, maybe with some custom foiling:
