yes, GL’s site says that what he means by larger island surf is 3-5ft overhead faces only… however he still makes a hawaiikine outline right… so there must be some demand for hulls in juicier-than-CA waves … was hoping to see pics in case. In that TSJ i did see a pic of some guy Kit riding J-bay.
fully appreciate what you say about the ‘delicacy’ of smaller waves … i’ve been blown away by that myself, and i’ve had X2OH+ waves that i took my PBer out and just suffered. Fully agree about smaller waves being their element… BUT…
yes, GL’s site says that what he means by larger island surf is 3-5ft overhead faces only… however he still makes a hawaiikine outline right… so there must be some demand for hulls in juicier-than-CA waves … was hoping to see pics in case. In that TSJ i did see a pic of some guy Kit riding J-bay.
fully appreciate what you say about the ‘delicacy’ of smaller waves … i’ve been blown away by that myself, and i’ve had X2OH+ waves that i took my PBer out and just suffered. Fully agree about smaller waves being their element… BUT…
You’d probably want to go with more of a semi gun shape (pulled in nose, pintail). Harder rails further up the tail. Pinched rails but less hull (maybe more of a 70/30 rail). I’ve wanted a board like this for bigger more hollow days. I think Andreini makes some boards like this.
I saw Kirk Putnam’s bitchen Haliewa board Greg shaped that looks a lot like Matt’s. There are stubbie aspects to them (foil, rails) but the outlines are different and the depth of hull is much reduced or moved back.
The stub outline is just too wide for power…too much of a good thing. I won’t even consider riding my Point Breaker in overhead waves and really draw the line at about shoulder high. You can detune them by pushing the fin to the back of the box but the whole deal gets uncomfortable. But that’s just me.
JS you were out for a LOOONG damn time today man - hope you had some 7'6" fun!
Caught a couple to myself that were fun. The 7’6" glides and turns great when I can get a wave to myself. Mostly watched 4 or 5 guys trying to surf the same wave and saw a few board collisions thrown in for good measure.
I surfed Malibu yesterday afternoon, windy but still fun. I surfed 8ft Liddle with one of SKs fins, it worked well. On Gregs clips of Tim Bowler , check the switchfoot action, Tim was the best all around surfer in our group IMO, still surfing and shaping in Alaska.
too bad the clip of bowler has him surfing shorter beachbreak type waves ( or jetty).
getting back to larger/juicer surf… interesting how the experience all sez that less hull for juicier waves… but with flexspoons, from which the hull evolved – it’s more hull (Velo) for larger/juicier, and less hull ( edgeboard) for weaker/smallish surf.
too bad the clip of bowler has him surfing shorter beachbreak type waves ( or jetty).
getting back to larger/juicer surf… interesting how the experience all sez that less hull for juicier waves… but with flexspoons, from which the hull evolved – it’s more hull (Velo) for larger/juicier, and less hull ( edgeboard) for weaker/smallish surf.
Maybe you need to experiment and get back to us with the results. Make a semi-gun with very slight hull and make one with deeper hull. I really don’t have the experience to say either way. I tend to think the plan shape is most important (why the stubby hulls don’t work in big hollow surf).
the malloys may prove otherwise…it’s only impossible until it happens
in surf over 6’ i’ll ride a board designed specifically for those conditions - i really want a 7’2 cali pin gun with a glass on single for this coming winter - C Christenson is the man for that job i think
7 foot hulls have been ridden in surf well overhead many a time by different folks. the speed is unreal and your legs betteer have some honey to 'em to handle the power of wave and hull when cranking turns…
7 foot hulls have been ridden in surf well overhead many a time by different folks. the speed is unreal and your legs betteer have some honey to 'em to handle the power of wave and hull when cranking turns…
It probably depends more on the shape of the wave rather than the actual size. PV Cove gets well over head to DOH in the winter and its still longboard dominated. Gun not required.
It’s those big, fast, heaving barrels that you got to watch out for and have a board that will fit the shape. You wouldn’t want to ride the Stubbies on a big day at Zuma.
