JS - this 7’6" is pretty bladed out but compared to a 6’2 it’s got float like a mother! such a fun board after 3 weeks of constant waves!
hey McMan, i have a TON of crayons - let’s get some funkay psychedelic lava lamp wax art happening … it’s hipster grip
see you tonight - thank you again for the loaner - when you get it back it’ll be covered in a wax rainbow of various crayola hues
I’m thinking Jackson Pollock or Kandinski.
hey I am still new to the hull thing, but completely addicted. Any pointers on cutting back, any time i try to do a little cuttie, i seem to either spin out, or I cut back and the board continues straight. I am riding a 7’6 microant II- thanks for the assistance. I think i am trying to turn it like a fish, which obviously is the incorrect way!!!
One thing I’ve found on any surfboard and snowboards as well is if I try to cutback (or turn) from the shoulders/chest (this is an unconscious act from tension) then “PLOP” instead, if I relax more and martial arts style move from center which really means using mostly ankles/knees/hips to generate the change in board AOA pitch and yaw then good things happen. Much more sensitivity and quick response to the wave is available. Hope that made some sense…
I liked it,
Myself thinking about bottom turns and laying over on rail; then trying to translate that to heel side…
Sometimes almost feeling like going to fall over backwards putting the board up on rail but,
wait it out “balance” and then the rail makes the turn and flex fin twangs… whee!
smothie, if you have not checked out the hull footage that might help:
allaboutsurf.com "six feet to fit"
Liddle surfboards "clips"
displacementfilm
Be patient, delicate and even pressure with both feet. Most of all practice, you’ll get it…
Hope that helps, have fun.
I find that when I use a skateboard with big soft Kryptonics wheels, loose wide trucks with wedge shaped risers, this can help as a training tool (or keep me tuned during flat spells).
Find a slightly steep hill that can give you continious motion. As you ride down this hill try turning a series of roundhouse cutbacks using only your lower body to turn. For me it’s begin to squat down as I start the turn and then come out of the squat as I come out of the turn.
I find it is akin to carving a snowboard down a long powder covered speed run.
As I ride the skateboard I try to picture teh wave I’m riding.
One of those Sector 9 retro mini boards they make might work, if it has no kick tail, that’ll keep you from wanting to use the tail to turn.
“I find it is akin to carving a snowboard down a long powder covered speed run.”
If you get the chance, learn to ride a Euro style race board w/ hard boots and plate bindings. Even closer… I find if I don’t so much think about the turn but rather how I want the board to interact w/ the water, the body mechanics more take care of themself…esp backside
basically, the rails are the fin. carve of them…
Here is a pic of a new 7’4" Liddle that KP sent me (the pic not the board). Nice round tail.
Here’s some pix of my 1st attempt at shaping a hull back in 2001. I also glassed this myself. The outline was taken from an 8’ hull that was my father’s.
In the first shot you can see I should pay attention to my outline, as this board became a bit parabolic, wider on the right rail. It was given to my buddy Brad who in turn rode it to almost total destruction before selling it.
I recently got it back to take some pix of it for posterity. All color was added by the new owner as was the non flex fin.
Deck:
Bottom:
Tail detail:
I posted the 3rd I made in the old post. The 2nd was a perfect copy of the 8’ we used as the template, but alas it’s gone.
Pretty cool. How did it work though?
looks good actually. stay tuned for ocho libre…
I’m changing the rail line of my 7’2". Gonna see how it works with a bit straighter line in the inside rail. Will leave the outside rail with more curve for cutting back.
Just preliminary pics. Still need to sand the bumps out.
I’m with you on asymmetrical curves in the planshape.
Hulls are obviously different animals that are ridden differently than the downrail asymmetricals I have been riding; my frontside tail planshape is narrower and has more curve because I am able to finesse my center of gravity and allow the tail to sideslip.
My backside planshape is straighter and wider in the tail for more planing surface because I’m able to bury the tail turning backside or cutting-back by driving with my heel; I add a small sidefin because it’s hard for me to control backside sideslip.
Sure would be nice to have a nice, consistent break out back for a test track. Ride the morning, bondo a new detail at lunch and try her out in the afternoon. Oh, Man!!
So, you’re straightening the frontside planshape in the tail of your hull for more draw and down-the line speed?
It was faster than than what was copied, and turned well. It was ridden with a Norm flex fin, which allowed for some great turns. It got beat to s__t in double overhead Zuma adjacent beachbreak.
I’ll bring it Sunday.
I'm with you on asymmetrical curves in the planshape.So, you’re straightening the frontside planshape in the tail of your hull for more draw and down-the line speed?
Pretty much. See if I can get a longer more drawn out turn with the straighter rail and keep the backside rail with the curve for cutting back. If it doesn’t work, Bondo is pretty easy to sand off. Shapes a lot easier than glass and resin too.
I'll bring it Sunday.
Sunday? What’s going on Sunday? Oh, you mean the stealth session at the Secret Spot? Don’t let anyone know about that place. Otherwise it will become a zoo…
I cut down a Norm Flex a few weeks ago to the shape of a L-Flex B because I didn’t like the Norm Flex’s huge rake.
Yeah, I’m not sold on them, Brad loves them though. “Gimme Volan Liddle-Flex or gimme death…”
I still think you might need to “Dirt” the deck of the board.
That could be the next step…