ProBox on the Move - ProBox / Larry

And the 3 quad sets I talked about in the earlier post:

The 8*, 6* that was really loose & gave great hold but slow in trim:

The 4*, 0* that was really fast & loose but unstable when I walked forward:

And the 6*, 4* “compromise” that did everything ok but nothing great:

What I really want to try (hint, hint!) is some Spitfire fronts in about 4.5" and then something really flexy in the back like an L-flex or even a Harbour HP-1. Low drag for speed but super turnable from anywhere on the board. When are you guys gonna have some little spitfires? :slight_smile:

handshaper,

where can i get probox in the uk? ive got a project to make a travel board at moment and looking at different fin setups

cheers in advance

Hi Ben,

I was wondering what kind of bottom contour on your board. It doesnt look like concave or flat…maybe my eyes are playing tricks but it looks convex. Certainly this would greatly alter the cant angles. Stoked your getting good results.

Its pretty much flat from fins to fins, with a rolled rail that starts from the bottom, about 1" in. Its my rad red spray paint job that’s throwing you off - its so fast, even the light can’t stick to it :slight_smile:

Larry, would you be able to give me the distributor information for Canada? I hope they’re available here!

Freshwatersurf, Please contact Fiber Glas Supply in Washington. Go to our Website www.ProBoxfinsystems.com and the contact information will be there. Ask for Mathew or Pat and tell them Larry sent you. They do alot of shipping into Canada. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions or problems, Thank you for inquring about ProBox. Mahalo,Larry

Hi ,

I need to know the thread size and thread count per inch of the Probox screws.

For both the side boxes and center type box if they are different sizes.

Thanks.

Hey hand-shaper, check your PM.

Aloha.

Interesting thread.

Here is interesting:

Larry got me started on this with screw size.

Generalized instructions for grinding ProBox fin tabs and tapping a new screw:

Okay, needed to grind the fin tab and move the side screw on a probox rear set fin box.

You know grinding the tab so that you can either get more front or back placement, then

placing a side screw with a die & tap set.

In my case I have a quad , so I have 2 of the typical center fin (short board) fin boxes without insert that has side screws.

Heres what I found the side screws are 10-24

(you wont hardly find this anywhere else on the internet, Im almost 100% sure FCS is the same and maybe the others),

which means the thread size is 10 and there are 24 turns per inch

on the screw.

http://www.santabarbarasurfing.com/reviews/2006/04/fcs-replacement-screws.html

Screw:

10-24 x 5/16 Cup Point Set Screw, Stainless Steel, $0.13

Tool:

3/32″ Hex Head Allen Wrench

So you use the 10-24 tap that you can get from a SAE Die & Tap kit at Freight Harbour. Any SAE Kit will do.

On sale for me $9.99 up to around $30 and even more if you so desire.

Use a #25 drill bit for the final hole before using the 10-24 tap.

I used a smaller drill bit to initialize the hole, then went for the #25.

Now comes twisting the 10-24 tap.

I had huge problems with the handle that is supposed to clamp down the tap.

It was either too big…the rotating handle was BIGTIME in the way and constant equal pressure could not be applied.

OR , the smaller handle that came with the kit, was engineered so poorly that it would slip while turning the tap!

Mucho problemos here!!!

Finally, I went to Ace Hardware and was able to buy a really nice ‘T-Handle Tap Wrench’ made by Irwin/ Hanson

additional info: for tap sizes #0-1/4" and ‘Spring Tension Sliding Handle’ for $7.99

With this tool as a handle to hold the tap, it went smooth as silk!

I was twisting the tap while the board was on a glassing rack and no other body or board geometry involved.

Looks like this method could be finessed on the regular side fin boxes that use a ‘cant’ insert and side screws.

However, the top side margins on the regular side fin boxes are narrower, so this may be touch/go -problematic…but it looks do-able.

I understand probox has a longboard fin box without side screws but an inner set screw …for that box this method does not apply.

Hi Guys, Here’s a new 6’2" Bear quad shaped by Randy Rarick and Glassed by Ed Surfos and airbrushed by Darryl Yata from Sunset Beach Hawaii. Randy would have posted, but he’s got the Triple Crown going on. Mahalo, Larry


Here’s another Bear Quad by Randy Rarick. Mahalo,Larry


Here’s another Bear quad with ProBoxes shaped by Randy Rarick. Hope you guys like the wild airbrush jobs on these boards. Mahalo,Larry


How do those boards go??? I’ve been thinking about that set-up for a while just never

got around to making the committment. My guess is the RR boards have great drive

but no sacrafice in pivot/snap. Kinda like the way twins did so well but without the

spin out. Great thread Larry!

Thanks PlusOneShaper, You are right in your comments! My taste is alittle bit different for the rear 2 boxes, but Randy and the North Shore boys like the rear boxes as shown above. Have a good Thanksgiving. Mahalo,Larry

Oh. I took a second look. It’s the fin placement for the back fins. Hmmmm. Different. How will they ride differently?

Quote:

Oh. I took a second look. It’s the fin placement for the back fins. Hmmmm. Different. How will they ride differently?

Hi Greg, I agree with you about back fin placements. I will try to find out from Randy because I don’t what to mis inform you about Randy’s reason for doing this. Maybe Randy will post, but not till after the Triple Crown Contest is over. Randy has his hands full with this big event of the year with thousands of people on the Island. Mahalo,Larry

Quote:

Oh. I took a second look. It’s the fin placement for the back fins. Hmmmm. Different. How will they ride differently?

As for something on the fin box placement of the Fish boards: “Here in Hawaii with a bit more power, we found that if you cluster the fin boxes a bit more closer together, you can get more of a positive turning point. If the waves are slower or mushier, then move the fins farther foreward on the outbound sets and farther back on the inbound sets and it loosens it up where necessary”. Randy Rarick

hey larry

been promising this for months

still needs a buff out

from the pretty light thread

Silly, As always, a work of art. The Blue center fin box nice touch. Very clean install of ProBoxes. Can’t wait to see the fins in the board. Thank you for your support in the ProBox Movement. Mahalo,Larry