Here's a favorite color combo I did for Robin. Love the Root Beer Float. Mahalo
Aloha pridmore:
If you want to get boxes contact Lance at the contact info I posted earlier on in the thread. I also sent him a sample set of these fins in a RED TINT, so if you are interested he has them on hand!
Aloha NuclearFishin:
Here are some photos of the board I made for Cam. I have been making a lot of these lately all in the 7-0 to 7-5 range.
The dimensions for this board are - 7’0" Length x 16" Nose x 21" Width x 14 7/8" Tail x 2 7/8" Thickness
I’ll let Cam add his comments on how it works or move the discussion to a different thread.
Aloha surfthis:
The front fin is 4.75" and the back fin is 4.25". I place them 1" from the rail and the distance from the tail varies depending on the board length, but in the case of say my 9-1 longboard the front fins are 16 1/2" from the tail to the leading edge and the back fins are 11 1/2" from the tail to the leading edge. The toe-in is 1/4" on the front and 3/16" on the back fins.
For shorter boards like the one I did for Cam the whole cluster is back by 1/2", for guns the front fins are typically about 17" up from the tail with a little more spread between the two sets of fins, same toe-in and always 1" in from the rail.
Let me know if you need more info or a diagram of the fin layout, mahalo!
thanks mate, I have sent an e-mail to hopefully get a set to try out...appreciate the link....
a touch of scorpion in the tail there hey ....
Aloha pridmore:
You are right and it does bite really well. I use this same tail on a lot of my longboards which are really just stretched out versions of this board!
[quote="$1"]
Aloha surfthis:
The front fin is 4.75" and the back fin is 4.25". I place them 1" from the rail and the distance from the tail varies depending on the board length, but in the case of say my 9-1 longboard the front fins are 16 1/2" from the tail to the leading edge and the back fins are 11 1/2" from the tail to the leading edge. The toe-in is 1/4" on the front and 3/16" on the back fins.
For shorter boards like the one I did for Cam the whole cluster is back by 1/2", for guns the front fins are typically about 17" up from the tail with a little more spread between the two sets of fins, same toe-in and always 1" in from the rail.
Let me know if you need more info or a diagram of the fin layout, mahalo!
[/quote]
Thanks for the info Robin.
Way more forward than I was thinking! Very cool looking set up.
[quote="$1"]
[quote="$1"]
Aloha surfthis:
The front fin is 4.75" and the back fin is 4.25". I place them 1" from the rail and the distance from the tail varies depending on the board length, but in the case of say my 9-1 longboard the front fins are 16 1/2" from the tail to the leading edge and the back fins are 11 1/2" from the tail to the leading edge. The toe-in is 1/4" on the front and 3/16" on the back fins.
For shorter boards like the one I did for Cam the whole cluster is back by 1/2", for guns the front fins are typically about 17" up from the tail with a little more spread between the two sets of fins, same toe-in and always 1" in from the rail.
Let me know if you need more info or a diagram of the fin layout, mahalo!
[/quote]
Thanks for the info Robin.
Way more forward than I was thinking! Very cool looking set up.
[/quote]
Surfthis, in no way am i busting your balls so please don't get offended... i'm just wondering if you noticed where he said "leading edge"?
when you subtract the lengths of the fins, that puts the rear dots at 11 1/2 and 7 1/4... to me that doesn't seem too far forward...
[quote="$1"]
Surfthis, in no way am i busting your balls so please don't get offended... i'm just wondering if you noticed where he said "leading edge"?
when you subtract the lengths of the fins, that puts the rear dots at 11 1/2 and 7 1/4... to me that doesn't seem too far forward...
[/quote]
DOH!!! Thanks for clarifying, I didn't read it close enough! You're right, it's not that far forward.
Aloha Surfthis:
I use some standard base measurements when I lay out my fins so that I can consistently measure the toe-in, so in the case of the example I gave the front base length would be 4 1/8" and the back base 4", so this would put the back marks at 12 3/8" and 7 1/2". These base lengths are shorter than the common fin base, but that is because most of my fins have very narrow bases. I use these numbers for any type of fin simply because it gives me predictable results and a system by which I can easily track the relevant numbers.
Ultimately I care where the front of the fin is located on the board as this to me is a lot more predictable than the back mark as it eliminates the actual base length. Of course I still make a back mark as that is the only way of setting up the inset from the rail, but I’m a lot less concerned about it. But given the front measurement you can then take any base length and figure out where to put the fin so that the leading edge will be in that location.
Hope this is not to confusing!
Robin, I’ll be joining my brother Bernie in Hanalei this Thursday. I’d like to stop by your shop and meet you if you’re there. Bernie told me that you had some details about fin placement that were different from what I’ve been doing. I’ll ask you some questions about fin placement if I see you.
I also hope to catch a few waves at Hanalei Bay. Never had the chance to surf there before.
Aloha sharkcountry:
Yes, I should be in my shop as I have a large batch of fins to work on so I’ll be close to home, except in the early morning :-).
Supposed to be some swell by then so you might luck into some good waves, see you then.
Look forward to seeing you and Bernie then.
Thanks Robin!
have contacted Lance and discussed getting the fins but unsure wether to outlay the coin to get all the jigs and stuff required....
looking into it....
Mark the jigs are gold!. It is the most unfu&kupable fin installation ever, worth it mate, well worth it.
Hey Robin
Are you doing any of the hatchets in the 375 size in current production run????
If you are put my name on them !!! .... any color will do, actually red would be great as they'll match my current set
Hey better still if you've already sent a set out to the distributor please advise .....all the best for nu-year !!
W
Pridmore, i'm going to echo Beerfan and say, get the jigs and router bit... after you've used the jig to route the hole, the tabs on the sides of the boxes snap down inside these little notches in the jig and keep the box from floating during the pour... i don't know how much they are over there but over here, they are pretty inexpensive... and, like Beerfan says, it's really tough to mess it up. so simple and strong
Hi all,
I’ve posted a ride report and a short story of the quadmatic board in a separate thread so as not to hijack this thread - enjoy 
Hey Pridmore…
The 4 jigs and the router bit to do a quad cost me only $35 US … Very cheap, and very important for a quick easy rout and install… You can buy extra individual plastic jigs for $3 to $5 US…The router bit last’s a very long time, and the jigs can be used over and over as well if looked after… You have to try Pro -Box once to believe… If you don’t like the boxes and fins, sell the kit to another board builder in your area…
I have no affiliation with Pro-Box whatsoever… Just a happy customer…