Troy & Austin - absolutely stunning. No basecoat required - you’d get an awesome wax pattern right from the start (if you could bear to wax it 
).
Thanks for posting!
hey darth,
I priced it out at $2.78 per checker! haha. We shot the whole panel of black at once then the whole panel of yellow at once. Tape it off for checkers, shoot it, then tape over those so it fills in the checkerboard and shoot it again.(if that makes sense) This was definately the most labor intensive color job I have done. By the way I dig your colorwork.
Austin
Hey Benny,
Thanks for the kind words. Can you shoot me an email? I lost all of my saved pms on jam. I have a feeling the customer is definately going to ride it a few times.
Austin
A couple in production pics.
Troy
Black Side
Beige Side
Showing proper painting technique. Pinkie out!
Had to say it before some else busts me on it.
Austin
I have a question…
is there any surfacing agent in the colors?
how many gloss coats after the color work?
Hey ken,
The resin is hotcoat with a splash of gloss resin and then a splash of surfacing agent for good measure. I use quickset catalyst on the big panels and regular on the checkers.
Austin
ahhh,I see
henceforth a lot of sanding , that you allready mentioned
one gloss coat?
hey ken,
Just one gloss. I prefer to feel the bumps. And quite a bit of sanding. I hit it with 150, tackrag, then shoot the gloss normal.
Austin
nice work there chief
Atomized, Your work is insane along with some others on this thread. I am amazed how big this thread is and you guys keep getting better. All you guys on this thread are great artists. Mahalo,Larry
thats how i drink cocktails…and trim laps!
Yes, Atomized proves you can do high quality resin swirls w/epoxy.
I love the polyester work, but this is the missing link for epoxy guys like me.
the swirls look good when done with paint yet lack the deepness as when done with resin. foam stain swirls are harder than they look…
I never doubted you.
i wasnt trying to get at yah… its just in my experince on foam stain swirls havent awlays come out like i thought the poor would make them come out.
Quote:
the swirls look good when done with paint yet lack the deepness as when done with resin
That is true to a point. With paint, the strength of the color has a lot to do with the inherent pigment load in the paint you use. Cheap paint= low pigment load.
Now there is a certain beauty to the depth you get when the color is dispersed in the lamination, kind of a stained glass effect, which you just can’t get with paint.
There are advantages and disadvantages with what you can do resin swirls in fiberglass cloth as well as with paint swirls done directly on the foam.
With paint for example, it’s pretty hard to get a good swirl pattern to lap around the rails without muddying it all up. You get much better results with resin and cloth since the swirl pattern is saturated into the draped cloth before the lap is squeegeed onto the rail.
I try compensate for this by keeping the swirl on the flats and spray painting the rails a solid color that blends into the swirl.
There are things that you can do with paint that would be pretty challenging to pull off with resin and cloth- like complex shapes.
The black pinlines are painted on the foam, not on the hot coat.
You can also spray a gradient tint over the swirl to accent an area for example, on this swirl I accented the tail with a transparent red fade.
BTW all of these are done on EPS.
hey guys, im new to swaylocks and pretty new to shaping. ive been drooling over all the amazing work on this thread for weeks wanted to share a pic of my stuff and ask a few questions.
the pics attached (i cant figure out how to put them inline) are of a board i did for friend. the flowers were done with acrylic on the lam then covered with a hot coat. this was my 5th or 6th glass job and it came out ok. i have never used a gloss coat, i have always just wet sanded the hot coat with 1500 grit and left it at that.
first, i was wondering when i use a gloss coat should i still sand the hot coat that much (with 1500) or leave it at say, 320? and second, after the gloss coat should i start buffing it straight away or do i sand first?
well thanks for any help you can offer, keep up the great posts, this thread is awsome.
Las olas, the smoothest you need to sand for gloss is 100 grit. Make sure you hand sand out all machine wheelies on the flats and get the board symetrical. There is no need for any finer grit on surfboards than 600. For glosscoats (provided you’ve applied it properly ie… it flowed out) start with 320 wet or dry (dry) and level out your gloss. Once you’ve machined the flats wetsand your rails with used 320 grit and water, then switch to 500 and go over it again. Now dry the board, then do the flats with 400 and 600 (dry). Start with some pressure and finish with very little pressure and long even strokes. Now your ready to buff!!