Oh, I see… Well, nose and tail-blocks have been shaped to match nose and tail, they have been glassed, both sides have been hot-coated, fin-box has been set, and I sanded it this afternoon (together with three other boards).
Ken, are you sure about that? I do use tint white to lighten some dark tints. It is actually transluscent, not opaque like the white pigment is. “West and Senior” is the brand I use.
Recent Paipo pattern. We used this pattern once before on an Austin Tribute and said we would never do it again due to the time consumption but as always never say never.
Ken, are you sure about that? I do use tint white to lighten some dark tints. It is actually transluscent, not opaque like the white pigment is. “West and Senior” is the brand I use.
The nose concave… deep and 48" long. The board has held up well for up here and you dont see a leash plug.
I did the nose in a wrap to 24 inches, using two 4 oz lams with color. A thick hot coat so I might not sand through to the weave and this is what I got. I never polished out completely as the board gets surfed a lot anyway.
This is a retro/hullish single for points. It has the patented resin bead tail edge starting at 24 inches from the tail, sharpened to a flint like blade.
Needs way more fin. Its the first board I did with a clear bottom. The lap was a little dry but the hot coat worked wonders. I did the top lap in a darker blue before I laid the cloth. It was supposed to be dark blue with light blue on the bottom but my squeegee’s are not so great and I worked some of the color out.
8’0" hard knifey nose to hard egg to down rail to resin edge, flat deck, 3.5 inches of nose r and 1.25 in the tail. 17 n, 15.5 t, 23.25
First day I rode it, it through me off the tail until I stuck 9 inches of fin it.