And silverbak the reason the detail is different is that with gloss panels you cannot allow the resin to go where it wants to flow like you can with a lam swirl
And the main thing that also causes mud is that people aren’t willing to waste resin!
To get good detail you gotta be prepared to put more on the floor than the board!!!
Sorry for the late response..I just read this by Pauluk...
Paul wrote…
“The purpose of them is to cover mistakes that's what glass shops use gloss panels for! If you can't do that type of detail in the lam you need to practise more!” It has taken me years to get my tints right to a standard where other glassers admire them and I want to put boards through shops. I've got to watch and work with the best guys around for this type of work and learned a few tricks along the way Muddy, Mexican blankets are easy to keep clean the trick is with every stroke you clean your squeegee its the same for all abstracts just keep cleaning the squeegee and the less you play with it the better the detail ! I've been on this thread from day one, and I've seen my tints get better with each page all the info is there you just have to take note of what the guys who can do this type of stuff are saying and practise Sorry to come across a bit bitchy :o)
Paul are you serious? You understand there are different methods to coloring a board right?
You don’t come across bitchy at all. You actually come across more outspoken and close minded about other ideas other than your own. This thread has always stayed on a positive note since its conception. Over my last 7+ years here at Sways, I have never posted a negative comment about someones contributions and I don’t get wrapped up in online confrontation and bickering. I will say my peace and move on…
To say that what I am doing is to cover up mistakes is ludicrous…really. How could you know? Go back and look at the detail of the “blooming resin” a few pages back. It’s not covering anything up. It’s finding new ways(to me) to get diffrent color work. That’s a totally different detail then swirl work, not that one is better than the other, it’s just my preference. I got bored with resin swirls a few years back, so I moved on trying to do more inspiring things(to me). I prefer more clear, crisp abstract work. Instead of criticizing my work you should open your eyes to other techniques instead of thinking you have achieved Jedi status with your swirl work…. This thread has always represented constructive interaction of different concepts and ideas for years. FYI …I posted on page 1 of this thread back in the day it was created, not that it matters. Point being…I’m not a newbie that needs direction from you on my taste and creativity. We have ALL got better from this thread.
hahahahahah you guys crack me up!!!
[img_assist|nid=1051473|title=dark love|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=480|height=640]No Mudd
Girvin wrote...
"hahahahahah you guys crack me up!!!!!!! "
No doubt!
Nice work!
I’ve been reading this post for years… Never heard anything negative…
Let’s get back to RESIN TINTS AND PATTERNS.
Drew
Oh!!!!!!! OH!!!!!!!! The colors !!! Insane color work !!!!!!!! OH ! Pass me the Thunderbird wine and a joint !!!!! Oh I'm getting dizzzzzzzzy !! Help me I think I'm gonna PUKE !!!!!!!!!!
im liking that girvin.
I have a huge squeege, every time i stroked it i wiped it off, in the end it was still muddy when i pulled it out,
so i shot more resin all over the face of this thing, slapped it twice, and went and had a beer.
so much for cleaning the squeegee, hahaha.
I think that hotcoat colorwork looks amazing that muddy did.
As far as the right way to do every part of board building, sorry, no, there are basics you should stick to and nail before the next step sure, which I dont even know because I dont build surfboards, but why constrain yourself? If you dont go out of the box you wont progress anything. I’d still be printing sublimated topsheets if that were the case, that’s what china is for.
ps, aside from simply dumping colors on this… to do this on my snowboard took a different approach and somehow I was able to pull it off first try (after doing 3 smaller test patches open cure). Our clear resin kicks in 25minutes, probably sounds like an eternity for a surfboard builder, but we did this during layup of the entire board. Dave handled the layup of the rest of the layers while i worked on the colors on the upper glass layer on a seperate table, slapped it all together and covered it with a clear topsheet, which didn’t smudge anything a bit thank god. First time i ever felt somewhat rushed during a build. We’re normally using 45min hardener that really wont even kick until you heat it to 180 degrees for 45min. Exact same properties after cured just way longer working time. Oh and that just reminded me of something.
This is probably off topic, but for you epoxy users out there… have you ever thought of building an oven to chuck the board into after each step? Epoxy loves heat.
" ....I have a huge squeege, every time i stroked it i wiped it off, in the end it was still muddy when i pulled it out,
so i shot more resin all over the face of this thing, slapped it twice...."
.....woohooo !!!
i'm glad it was only RESIN you shot on the face ....
'blaksheep', eh ? indeeeed.......
[ haha sorry mate , I just couldn't resist [ it must be all the bikini girls on the gold coast being on the news today ...tv does strange things to me , sometimes ?! ...]
yep it was just resin, what do you mean? ;)
I just looked back about 20 pages (to catch up) and nearly puked on my shoes that many times also.
I know, I know… Not trying to be negative. Honestly the biggest mistake (there are none, right? keep telling yourself that) is that it seems like everyone is using opaque pigments for everything. They really don’t have a place in the abstract laminating arena. The only opaques I use are white and black, cuz everything else can be done cleanly with true tints. Then do a test on foam with your pigmented resin to get the correct ratio of pigment/resin before putting it on a board.
Pauluk, good god… you’re the instructor here? Scarry! Tool, you just set them back a decade! Can you tell we are friends? Neither of us have anything nice to say and think we know it all (like you asked or something). But I actually do!
Z
choke on this!
Bad day Zeph? LOL I know there is a ton of crap on here, some mine. I do love your color work. The recent slayer one is insane. I wish you posted more on your blog.
hhahaha… hope you see through my sarcasm girvin. My buddies (Paul) nonsense got my all charged up!
Thanks for looking, I wish I did more posting also, either I don’t do enough boards or I’m horrible at documenting it.
keep up the good work!
LOL I got the sarcasm. If you need help with those boards shoot me a PM i will be down your way a bit this winter bouncing around or at least a beer.
some nice colours on that blog , mate !
anyone ever do a resin tint (transluscent) top and bottom with no cut laps? Any pictures?
thinking of a green tint to my mini-simmons and want to keep it as simple as possible. Guess the worst case will be darker rails because of doubling up on the tint in this area. Let me know if i should just do the cut lap.[img_assist|nid=1062234|title=mini simmons|desc=|link=none|align=left|width=100|height=75]
It will most likely look kind’a like the bottom of this board.
if you do not do a cutlap the free lap may look sloppy, but in no way will it effect performance, so if you want to try it, give it a whirl; whats the worst that can happen
