hey delbert , longtime …
that was a nice break from the tone so far …
hey did you like the shots of my local breaks ???
this one is jakes , its featured in the article a few times , this place can not close out , i have surfed it looking like chowpoo (i know that was spelt wrong), the wave doesnt move , so the bigger it gets , it still hits the same ledge and just gets thicker and hollower …watch the locals , i think they have a rule , and that is , we take any wave we want , regardless if your inside or not …
so i can get intimidating , trying to get a wave without some clown dropping in , theres actually a few good locals , full rippers , but i think its common to all heavy point breaks , they just attract a heavy local element , coz there is no deeper than deep , so everyone jostles for that one square meter that lets you in early enough to get to the bottom …once the wave starts its run , there is nowhere else to get on
then another in the north pictured below , the bluff , this is the one on the cover with bentley in the barrel …
this wave is so fast its bordering on unmakeable , its not uncommon to ride start to finish in the tube …
i prefer it on an onshore it puts the lip back within range …
then there was a heap of nice shots from our southwest …
surfed all those waves except margrets bombie , thats tow in and big ball stuff , ant was out there as usual , i remember surfing margrets mains years back , he would have still been a teenager , it was so big i was as scared as you can get and he was one of the 4 other guys in the water , i think he did well in one of the eddies a few years back , he may have even won a sunset contest as well ??
then the last shot was the south coast , now this place is wild …
thousands of miles of virtually uninhabited untamed wilderness …
im so wishing i had my friends photo collection right now , hes got all the best ones , all i have is what hes offered me from his collection , but this place has so much power , it comes straight up from antarctica with speed , stays deep then will stand up on granite ledges , the beach breaks down here are so thick its stupid , they hit fast , to the point that after a few beatings , you think twice before every lip bash …
this coast has claimed so many lives …
it gets king waves , rogue sets that come out of nowhere and will be twice the size or bigger than the swell at the time …
countless tourists have been washed off headlands and rocky outcrops by unexpected waves …
theres a rule down there , if there is no sand on the rocks , theres a reason , so if your on any bare rock , watch the ocean …
early 80s i remember seeing a picture of a 100 foot face wave on the front page of the albany advertizer , someone had snapped it during a big swell , breaking over the natural bridge , a tourist attraction that people walk on …
all the waves featured are our regulars , so for anyone who comes down this way , there super easy to get to , there the ones we let the tourists surf …
they account for 1 out of ten …
to get to the others means , giving you car (ORV) a serious work out , and maybe a slab for a navigator , so you take the right dirt track …
hey delbert , what ever happened to that bun??
ok back to poly v epoxy …
slim , your the last guy left standing …
regards
BERT