yeah , it looks FUN , eh ?
lucky Simon …
at the other end of the spectrum , here’s ‘Lavz’ , loving life on a clean , small, uncrowded day at lanno, north of here , last tuesday…[the day I launched the ‘bushfire fish’]
…I think you’re riding the “moonrocket” board in all three of these photos , Lavz ?
cheers !
ben
Wow…never seen that before.
This rare spot was firing today then the winds got intense… Tomorrow morning has light offshore winds so I’m on it!!! I’d say 90% chance I will be alone out there… Maaaybe couple guys at the most… Ahwoooooo!
autumn micro waves at my local …
The swell ‘seemed’ to be picking up today , and is “supposed” to be 3metres [out to sea] by Sunday , according to the forecast …
…wait and see , wait and see …
cheers,
ben
yea, Chip, i like doing that too - takin pics of perfect miniature waves. it’s mesmerizing. once after paddling in at a spot here , i noticed the shorebreak was peeling perfectly up this sandy rivermouth - only about 2ft - but just perfect shape, and clear water. i got into catching them and riding my board proned out - over and over and over - had a blast…until I got up after my last ride and notice a skeg had been taken clean off.
Nice pics Chip!!
Saw this one on surfline…
Brrrrrrrrrrrr!!!
in this computer age , when I see a shot like that I now have to ask "…real ??? or ‘photoshopped’? "
[it’s a pity computers can ‘lie’ with photos, really , isn’t it ?!]
still , it’s an 'interesting ‘photo’ , non the less …what country is that in ?
cheers !
ben
and , looking towards shore …
Quote:
in this computer age , when I see a shot like that I now have to ask "…real ??? or ‘photoshopped’? "
[it’s a pity computers can ‘lie’ with photos, really , isn’t it ?!]
still , it’s an 'interesting ‘photo’ , non the less …what country is that in ?
cheers !
ben
I have no idea real or fake or where… But it makes my nipples hard just looking at it!
Finnaly got to leave the state and do a trip back down to North Baja & SD. My girlfriend has a hurt knee and was out of the water so she snapped pics. I rode my 6’6" that I shaped and glassed myself. I surfed with her brother from OB and NOBODY else the whole trip!..& that includes a 3 hour session at head-high Blacks, empty! Maybe it was the storm last week and the run-off, but the whole coast seemed empty. Pretty fun waves and empty beaches made for a good trip. The board works better than I ever anticipated. One of my favorite shortboards actually. It’s really versatile, working in slop pretty good, but excelling in thicker stuff. The fins hum a bit though.
Pt. Loma goodbye shot.
nice …thanks mate !
the local surebreak [!] during the week …
(“popeye” popped his leg out this day …weeks out of the water , as a result . Get well soon , ‘bru’ !)
…even tiny waves can be beautiful to look at …
…I get some funny looks , kneeling in knee-deep water , taking photos of tiny shorebreaks at 6.15am…( but then again , I get some funny looks , anyway…)
what speed film do you use chip? You have a housing for your camera, right?
I should have some pics up within a month (gotta finish the roll) me and a friend took yesterday
hi mate !
400asa / iso film …
yep , a waterhousing …
this was a cheap , reusable camera [ hicksy bought three of them. ]
ben
…I look forward to seeing your shots [I took my first roll of water shots when I was 16 years old […yikes , that’s nearly 30 years ago now !!]
if you tried a faster film (like 800) you would get crisper shots if that’s what you’re looking for and they wouldn’t be so fuzzed out in the lower light conditions
thanks for the tip mate , but it’s actually something wrong with the shutter …I’ll try my camera in hicksy’s housing next [ I suspect his kids may have banged the camera at some stage …probably in their swimming pool , I’m guessing …]
400iso film is PLENTY fast [and grainy!] for watershots from 8am to about 6pm in our cloudless autumn skies at the moment …
cheers !
ben
sure / shorebreak …
…a 6" wave’s lip ‘axing’ , in ankle deep water ?! …
