Just so you can get an idea of how deep im going, this is the point at which the double concave starts to get going.
^ Intended photo wouldn’t upload as phone signal keeps cutting out. I’ll try again another time. Sorry for the double post!
LTM
Soon !
In the mean time
a Musical
interlude…
“Boy”
got secession with photog’s this A.M. !
Good tele report!
He rode the red or “El Diablo”.
a few broken boards, was what I heard…
“Boy” (I heard) did not get off easy.
And took some “beat downs”.
Oh, that red board, HA!
Stoked!!!
And standing by for photo’s.
So very nice to get some feed back outta
some grinders…
UPDATE:
here is what I got early…
Sorry Huck my lips are sealed…
Supertubes?
Thats great mattwho.
Really great that you are getting good feedback. The Red Diablo is the same as previous but more rocker? I can definately see a good amount of rocker there, not much chance chance of nose diving from looking at the photos. I remember you saying that the board would need bigger conditions than the first test, so looks like its passed.
Interesting style on the second photo, getting nice and low.
Huck, I read that you hurt your hand, hope you get it sorted, and make a full recovery.
LTM
Yeah!
Boy’s a skater.
That’s his style.
Just want to see the bottom turn.
Lucky as hell to have such a great surfing life!
Boy has been groomed since he was 4…
That swell really had to cover the Pacific.
Hawaii 1/2 way got wicked.
And had more energy than I expected.
I try to keep up with NOAA
These are a few days old!
But El Nino comes on!
Dolores comin’ on super position and may make land fall in So. Cal.
“batten down the hatches”
And “Boy” has a full quiver.
Eh, Dig this one!!!
Things “heating up” here…
Gonna kick out for awhile
and work hjard for a while
maybe make some money.
This otta keep you entertained…
More testing on the original test board.
More testing on beackbreaks.
Needs more tail flip, not necessarily more tail rocker, but more flip.
Surfs well, but difficult to push it vertical, also slightly difficult to climb to the top on backhand floaters on crumbly closeout sections.
Just keeping 4things alive attached is a random photo from a new build,
Looking good!
Agree on the tail flip…
Judging from the last shot
I have too do the “old” visual straight edge
and if I was to, go back to doubles
they would look just like that!
Your statement “Surfs well, but difficult to push it vertical, also slightly difficult to climb to the top on backhand floaters on crumbly closeout sections”
Tell me more…
We discussed sometime back (I think) about the straight part in the modified “Flyer” template I love.
To me, it adds to a pivot point and IF desired can get the board to somewhat wrap around your waveside fin.
Test and feedback.
We are in surf and in search of conditions.
Great surfing Summer, wtf ???
Shop sales sucking.
Below the line sales as well!
Repairs UP…
Really studying those doubles!
Ha! Most don’t pass muster.
Keep on with the great work.
Best.
The Hawaiians have a bunch words descibing water conditions
one of which is **kai hoʻi **or returning sea.
Trying to maintain my sprit in the ups and downs
of the wacky world of surfing.
Possible epic surf here and all my winters work are getting riden.
Dreaming about getting back to the HYPO stuff.
Just getting back to work.
Here’s two…
First a 5’-6" “Fang” flat bottom Greg Griffin type Mini Simm Buster
Got some curve in it and narrowed up
with some wicked tucked edges.
And no worries I tweaked the bat tail after seeing the shots!
The second a “Contender” knock off 7-0
a liitle thicker and a medium single concave.
Get back with some ride reports, eh?
my end? ride reports all great, we are doing something right.
Photog’s are slowto give it up and lagg.
here’s one of “Boy” 2 bad my logo upsidedown and fuzzy…
Best and over.
Good stuff Mattwho. Sounds like your red board is being enjoyed. That’s what its all about!
Not much testing going on this end at the moment, just putting the hours into work and research.
The test board I have more plans for, after going great on point breaks, and lacking very slightly in tail rocker flip for the beachbreaks (note flip rather than overall end rocker number) Planning to use a smaller centre fin for further testing and some other ideas as well I plan on doing.
Trying to get maximum understanding of everything about it before making test board mk2. generally I’m pretty happy with it.
Photos attached are a custom order from a surfshop, retro style with performance tail rocker, a little extreme IMO but the dims I was given are set in stone, and I don’t have any contact with the final customer for this order. Had to re-shape the entire rocker to hit all the numbers, Not my style but thats what I was given.
I am assuming that the dims are designed to re create a certain model of board.
Also using my scales alot, finding out how much weight is in the shaped blanks, glassed blanks and post sanded blanks. To be honest sanding shaves off less weight than I previously thought. Highlights the importance of a super tight lamination.
You mentioned your adapted flyer template, keen to know more, I think I must have missed it.
Also, sometime soon i might try and pick your brains a bit more about making a stubby. But first I need to see what kind of blanks I can get my hands on for that style of board.
Keep the updates coming!
Hoping you got the PM summing up the rockers
And I am so anxious to get to the next batch of grovelers.
Question for you sonny,
As I am ignorant on exactly what a “Stubbie” is!
My take is a “stubbie” is a groveler
And a “short board” is a step up
Forgive my lameness!
The data averaged over all
Speaks volumes and 2 me…
Only confirms that the path we are on
Is going somewhere!
Be grateful of those “picky” orders
Yep kiss ass time!
Funny story,
Have a friend, a great soul and x Sunset charger (certified madman) in the BK days.
Took him out about 4 years ago and had to rescue his ass.
Well he took it as a challenge.
Wound up shaping four boards for him
ALL under his direction
All the way I am trying to inject what I felt was correct.
And blend all this into a 7 foot board.
Those boards where rode in So Cal and Hawaii
With some success.
Friday he “fell” by with a couple of new boards.
Real nice stuff (side note these are John Kelly “Hydro’s”)
Moral is
I should have not complained or tried to correct basic rocker errors.
My buddy took my boards to a CNC cat.
Kinda hurt my feeling at first.
But after seeing the Inproved version
I can see improvement but someone is still kissing’ ass.
Eh ya know what?
Still love him dearly,
Eh, he is just as warped in pushing limits as me!
Here are some shots from some wake surfing by “Boy” (goofy foot) and “Skinner” (tatted regular foot)
Both riding the “Fang”
Kinda nice as the surf isn’t happening…
Just stoked as hell!!!
Video is the 2nd Maurice Cole type single concave made.
Wakeboarding testin’ that is!
I’ll spare you #1 from last year…
Boy was able to lose the rope.
I feel this is a good study in so much
That you can see the acceleration and bogg…
Really got my blood flowin’!
So very nice to test this way.
However I’m not so old that I have not wake surfed
And I know upon returning to Mother Ocean
It is not the same.
Ah, close, but no Cigar!
Aloha!
Looking Good!
Feeling Stoked for you Mattwho.
So, are you finally getting some waves in your area? I would have thought that you would get less flat spells with all that Pacific Ocean, excuse my lack of knowledge about the set-up there, but do the Channel Islands really block off that much swell from getting through? Or just summer flat spells?
Red board holding up ok after some heavy situations, what kind of weight is that one?
By the way, no PM received, if you can try sending it again, will be appreciated.
Working hard here in and out of the workshop, more testing tomorrow, wish me luck with favourable conditions! Unfortunately my go-pro hasn’t arrived in time, so test videos this end will have to wait.
Wake Surfing, Never tried it… but it looks great for feeling a board out, and a different and possibly less saturated market?
Stubbies! Well I expect that no-one really knows what a stubbie is anymore, everything these days is so crossed over and mixed its difficult to exactly define this stuff. Years ago Stubbies around my local area were known as short shortboards with wide rounded noses, now it seems anything short and relatively wider than a standard shortboard can be classed as a stubbie. I have a stubbie project in the pipeline, but still havn’t had chance to think it through enough to make a start on it, when I do I expect i will be throwing a few questions your way. Your fang boards looks sweet.
Spent a fair few hours playing with AKU Shaper, trying to get some of my numbers sorted, especially detailed rocker numbers, to not leave anything to chance. Numbers for everything.
I doubt the extra detail will slow me down much, if it can make things clearer what I am actually aiming for in the final shape, I can just get on with it with more inner confidence and purpose.
Trying to shoot to the next level.
Definitely not a typical wave for this stretch of coast, I’m guessing near that apt you were renting out awhile back…
“So, are you finally getting some waves in your area? I would have thought that you would get less flat spells with all that Pacific Ocean, excuse my lack of knowledge about the set-up there, but do the Channel Islands really block off that much swell from getting through? Or just summer flat spells?”
The Channel Islands both receive and block almost all swells to some extent.
It really comes down to local knowledge of the swell direction and the tide.
I know where to be and at what time, HA
Red board holding up ok after some heavy situations, what kind of weight is that one?
Coupla snapped boards that day went with Arrimid fiber on the rails with a US Blanks “team” stringer the Red board is @ just shy of 6# sans fins
“By the way, no PM received, if you can try sending it again, will be appreciated.”
Sent it again, via Sway mail, hope you got it and I know the format messed up the numbers.
I think we both gained better insight and a quick check that we are not too far off the leading edge of design.
Really been searching for a shorter blank with some volume and rocker numbers close.
”Working hard here in and out of the workshop, more testing tomorrow, wish me luck with favorable conditions! Unfortunately my go-pro hasn’t arrived in time, so test videos this end will have to wait.”
Go pro the bomb! Video files? Oh SSHit!
“Wake Surfing, Never tried it… but it looks great for feeling a board out, and a different and possibly less saturated market?”
HA! Rusty P is on it!
“Stubbies! Well I expect that no-one really knows what a stubbie is anymore, everything these days is so crossed over and mixed its difficult to exactly define this stuff. Years ago Stubbies around my local area were known as short shortboards with wide rounded noses, now it seems anything short and relatively wider than a standard shortboard can be classed as a stubbie. I have a stubbie project in the pipeline, but still havn’t had chance to think it through enough to make a start on it, when I do I expect i will be throwing a few questions your way. Your fang boards looks sweet.”
Eh!
Thanks for the break down!
In regards to the “Fang”, really not my idea, I quizzed Greg Griffin of “Sunset Point Surfboards”
Nice but tuff old guy!
Got enough info to make a batch for testing all different outlines.
Eh, Greg didn’t give up anything template wise.
Got the outline worked out just robbed Greg’s “Felix” tail!
Dig this shot!
Mouth Go Pro still…
Fang works real good!
Mahalo Mr. Griffin!!!
When you are ready ask away!
“Spent a fair few hours playing with AKU Shaper, trying to get some of my numbers sorted, especially detailed rocker numbers, to not leave anything to chance. Numbers for everything.”
Tried AKU but man I AM SO “Old School” …
I mean, I can walk in with a build sheet for a one off.
But I really don’t need anything else.
But the right blank.
Sometimes it takes a while of eyeballing and flipping.
But, the board I want is in there, just got to see it.
“Never begin until you are in Zen”.
It pays off later…
As in another or more.
“I doubt the extra detail will slow me down much, if it can make things clearer what I am actually aiming for in the final shape, I can just get on with it with more inner confidence and purpose.”
Strange!
A “show room” finished blank is something I have had to work on and once you start with that in mind I have no trouble.
I’m glassing my own stuff as well and have learned a ton trying to get caught up.
Still a Poly guy.
Tried EPS and Epoxy in the Clark crisis, I had two SurfTech’s both ridden in larger surf.
Got along with the Merrick 7-6 C-5 and just hated my 8-6 Rusty Island.
Just too stiff.
But resale value, crap I made money!
Lotz of Indo travelers!!!
“Trying to shoot to the next level.”
Let’s kick down the door!
Hopefully you are still getting some waves, Hurricane near Hawaii, will you get any good swell from that?
Had a nice day of testing, as you can see from the photo.
It is these conditions that the board was designed for, and it does deliver well, been having a blast in these conditions! Previous comments about improving entry unfounded, paddles in just fine after all.
Also just playing around and experimenting, I foiled down a rear nylon fin to make it make it more flexible and with slightly less rake to make the board a bit more lively, an old trick of mine. will be interesting if this will enable the board to go vertical easier on beachbreaks.
That board will now be put up for sale, i will be sorry to see it go for pointbreak surfing, but I told myself that I will change my board every few months to keep things fresh and keep me in-tune with what I’m making, No quivers just keeping one board at a time and changing it regularly.
Aramid Fibre. Have you had any problems working with it? My rail patches I held in place with some dabs of resin and free lapped as usual, although I found that there were enough bumps to cause a few little air bubbles in the lam in that area, also had to go easier when sanding on those areas too as to not sand through, definately added extra grams when I tried it.
I have some new ideas for rail patches with another nylon based material which should lay flatter, so more experimenting.
Tried EPS and Epoxy in the Clark crisis, I had two SurfTech’s both ridden in larger surf.
Got along with the Merrick 7-6 C-5 and just hated my 8-6 Rusty Island.
Just too stiff.
But resale value, crap I made money!
** **I completely agree, I was breaking too many boards (around 1 every 4-6 months) it was getting expensive, so I bought a surftech or a tufflite (cant remember which) it was nothing amazing, but it was a good board- I had that for 4 years surfing the hell out of it without breaking it, then sold it for 300 Dollars, then back to polyester which was when I started making myself my own boards as well. Never looked back to Epoxy, but that doesn’t mean that i wont in the future (but probably only with PU Foam)
Exciting times to test some rocker numbers, numbers are definately the way forward to me, get the blank marked out in detail and then I can just get on with it. More my style. Although there is nothing wrong with doing things differently. I have always been more maths than art.
Tell us more about the clear stringers (I think that was you that is planning that?)
Keep us updated
LTM
