Hello,
Funny how nearly everyone seems to be confusing speed with big wave riding and tube riding. . . .
Aloha Roy
I agree. Though if we are talking maximum speed, then bigger more hollow and more powerful waves are where max speeds are more likely to be achieved. But I do understand your point. Fastest speeds, relative to a specific break, day and board is an important issue.
And also it is strange how discussing speed brings up so much emotion, like it’s a taboo subject or something.
Roy, with all due respect, I think the emotion is primarily stirred by your provocative approach to the issue. Your claim that YOUR boards ARE the FASTEST, is what tends to set the competitive tone right from the start. I realize that you are a great and firm believer in your boards and of course your presumption of their superior speed. The emotion you are seeing reflected back to you in the discussion is because of the dogmatic way you present your belief, without data to back it up.
From my point of view, it’s a fairly intellectual pursuit, I don’t really equate trying to go fast with having to take off on massive waves or proving myself as a big wave hell man, and it surprises me that people seem to assume that I am pumping myself up as a great surfer sinmply because I have built some fast boards.
The point is that going faster on any kind of wave is what I am talking about. . . if that’s big waves then it’s all good, small waves, also good.
I am interested in discussions about speed, and measuring speed as a design tool, not all this emotional irrational stuff.
Then don’t make your superior speed claims in advance of appropriate proofs, because to others, it is those claims that seem to be the “emotional” and “irrational stuff”. You say you make fast boards. But people here only know whether you do or not by how we see them going in your videos and apparently Roy… they don’t look all that fast to many on Swaylocks. Consequently, you have a certain kind of polarization going on. You say they are fast, others are politely (most of the time) trying to tell you that they aren’t.
In my opinion the speed discussion here reveals an immaturity . . . it’s as if we don’thave the language or the presence of mind to talk about it without it becoming a macho standoff, that’s a pity really, because it hinders the exchange of information which we could be having.
Assuming we are all honestly investigating speed results and there are no existing standards or data regarding them. Then it could be seen as “immature” or even provocative, to make claims regarding the speed of any board without data. Especially by those as prejudiced as the maker of those boards might tend to be. Making claims in advance of quality data will surely create a discussion tone that leads to a “macho standoff” as everyone tries to establish their position, via talking, instead of surfing.
“Trust only movement. Life happens at the level of events, not of words. Trust movement.”
-Alfred Adler
Roy, you may be dead right that your boards are way faster then all others. And it would be pretty cool to discover that you are onto something that everyone else has missed all these years.
The tension you are seeing is due to the lack of belief in this by others. Maybe they are right. Maybe they are wrong. We have all surfed and watched surfing for long enough to have some “reasonable sense of speed”. We are all great supporters of your work Roy. But when it comes to their superior speed we are all still looking for the visual evidence as apparently, what you have produced so far, hasn’t effectively made your case well enough to convince anyone. The reason that Laniakea was mentioned, is because that wave can be perfectly formed from 5’ to 15’+ and yet be so fast that it is impossible to keep up with. It is very easy to see who is making waves and therefore who is going faster in that kind of condition because he who isn’t is wiping out regularly.
GPS won’t really establish it either as it will only measure the time it takes to get from point to point over land. Board speed is really an issue of water speed over the hull. The amount of water passing under a board and how fast it travels, seems to me to be the true measure of speed.
A continuing thought on cutting back…since staying on ones board is necessary when banking the board up on a rail when turning, one would fall off without foot straps or enough centrifugal force to attach one’s self to the deck.
To achieve the necessary centrifugal force needed to stick to the deck firmly one would need enough speed to initiate the turn and hold the turns arc and not slow down too soon. So what I was thinking with my previous cutback question was… Roy, do you have enough speed on your boards to lay them over in a turn or cutback such that the centrifugal force would hold you securely to the deck. Or… are you primarily just trimming along with the wave and assuming that in that position that this is where maximum speed is generated. It might be where the maximum distance is covered, but I don’t think it is where the maximum speed is.
It’s been fun though, and thanks for all the input, and the invitations/challenges, it shows that there is at least some interest in the subject of pure speed.
See you soon.
PS Sometimes the fastest speed on any given day will be only a few knots. . . . like on a day of small unbroken swell. … . . . I am interestedin that side of things too, not just the very obvious big wave tube stuff. . . . surfing fast can be a very gentle pursuit, just like gliding or sailing can be .
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