Aloha Ozzy
A question? Does an “epoxy board” mean EPS foam? EPS would change allot of things.
The situation you describe would result from me in Hawaii as a …
Super Blue Clark blank. 1/8" stringer
Polyester resin, double 4 oz deck, single 4 oz bottom. No it won’t last for ever, but who wants to be riding the same board a year from now anyway!
Sanded finish. Cause it is cheap and popular not because it is best.
I would include strength spars along the stringer as Hawaii would push the board to the breaking point. And because his larger size and thin board would over flex and not spring back properly.
Dimensions approx., 12.2 x 18.7 x 14.2 Squash tail. But these are highly dependent on the waves, surfe and boards in his existing quiver.
The fins would go on at 3 1/4" x 11" x 1 1/8". A tighter grouping like yours would be ok for slower waves, more pivoty surfing. Toed in to nose for aggressive turning, or 1" off nose for longer waves and trims. Cant at about 7-8 degrees depending on depth of concave and Resistance force needed relative to surfers turning force.
Actual fin templates depend on the rider. Stock would get the FCS YU fin.
Because of Hawaii’s differences, I would use more nose and tail rocker. Again depends on wave and rider.
I would use a full concave through the last 2/3 of the board. No Vee.
Rails, hard in tail, soft at nose, progressively blending in between. Volume of rail would depend on the rider and how he surfs and what he prefers to achieve proper weighting and deweighting without bogging from low volume or inability to fully sink the rail due to too much volume
Ozzy, I remember doing a magazine interview back in the late 70s early 80s and Rusty was there as I was borrowing his shaping room. Rusty asking exactly the questions you are and he was bemoaning that when the top shapers do interviews there is never any technical info contained in it. This is a common problem as top shapers use a broadly floating pallet of design decisions when individualizing boards. So much so that you simply can’t explain in numbers what the outcome will be, without the customer standing in front of you. And, what I would make for that same guy 6 months later would still be different as his abilities and needs evolve and my understanding of the specific blends he needs also improve. “Best” is a very transient moment in time. And is judged with very limited exposure to all the alternatives that may be available. Even the most experienced guys have only seriously explored maybe 50% of what could be. But that 50% has taught them enough so that they can reasonably speculate on 40% of the other 50%. In the remaining 10% there may be something remarkable and when the time comes it may reveal itself.
To be clear Ozzy, I wasn’t thinking of you when I said…“less experienced”. But I am glad you got my point. Seeking after that magical number for tail rocker, that you might think all the pros know and use, is a waste of time. It all depends too much on too many other variables.
That singular magical formula that can make a bad board builder good, just doesn’t exist. I know it seems like it ought to! That is why surfboard making is so seductive. Each board you feel like your getting closer to that elusive target of the perfect board. The seduction is increadibly powerful! Add in some occasional positive comments about your boards from the “hot guys” and then a magazine mention and it can become a full on addiction.
Next thing you know your deep in the business of surfboard building and more poor than you were when you had a real job and bought your boards from someone else! Ha!
Besides… even if we could all define the perfect board, how many could get their hands to do the work accurately enough to arrive at all those numbers perfectly? This is one of the reasons way playing with dramatic, visible design elements is so attractive. It is way more easy to just drop in some dimples, deep channels, venturis, unique fins etc and prove to the world that your on the cutting edge of design.
If we saw these things more like they really are…as different fashionable additions to the underlying design base…we wouldn’t worry so much that we might be missing out on the latest wave of advancement in surfboard design. These are spinner wheels, 20" speakers, Versace designed seat covers and diamond studded steering wheels. With the right adjustments to the base design, they can all be made to work. But look at the long term… which one of these is still around and kicking?
Enjoy them for the accecssorizing that they are so you can keep pace with the fashion trends of surfboard design. This is the whole fun of backyard surfboard making. There are no real customers other than yourself that have to be pleased so you can trip out on all kinds of wild inspirations. Chrome plate those channel bottoms. Put 200 watts behind those fins. Put a 12" lift kit on that nose rocker! Have a ball. There are no rules and there are no absolutes. Surfing is so different to everyone that does it and that is the magic. In no other sport can a total beginner buy some materials for about $150.00 bucks and create his own hardware to embark on his personal quest of becoming a member of that activity. That’s really amazing when you think about it!
